Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls.

Well, I'm about to start manufacture of the R33 AFM to TURBO reinforcement ducts.

Construction?

Mandrel bent pieces of Stainless steel, in a raw finsih, TIG welded. No polishing will be done, but if you want to do it when you recieve your pipe, the steel is ready for it. There will be sufficient pipe at either end to give a good seal to to the air. There will also be 2 x 1 inch beads of weld on the rim of each end of the pipe to give a non slip join.

You will need to purchase your one clamps depending on what style you want.

Currently the R33 jig have been fabicated and production will begin when all payments are in.

The price will be $110 each EXCLUDING postage.

I will work out postage with one person in each state and ship the ducts as a big bunch, and you can pick them up from that person. This means it's much easier for everyone and cheaper too. Obviously if you are out the back of Burke and you need a single shipment, or would just prefer a single shipment, this can also be worked out.

NOTE

The standard duct will not be able to be returned to standard after fitting the new section of pipe, but the duct will be such that it will be virtually invisible to the untrained eye.

People in so far, tell your mates who have R33s now, as I will only do this group buy once, no matter how much people want them!

RedlineGTR

Robo's

Pinoi-Boi-r33

Riceline

B1 Mr_Fanny

Wolverine

Xr8Eater

gtrGhosTDoGG11

burnfest

SydneyKid (Stagea R33)

ICE12 (Stagea R33)

SKYBEE

|PRESA|

tridentt150v

BLakniTE

SKYNUTS

GOR33

CMS Drifter

knore

drewecrome

halz....................PAID

R33 newbie

predator

R33_KRAZY

nacional

craz0

gts-wpn

LANFOH

Babia

r0ma

Zebbie

Race__24

abcent

R33impul

13_Devil

cd04

YogiR33...............PAID

Bazr33

Terminal

gR33ddy

tuitahi

tkch55

GTS33SOM

rob1981

Total R33 = 46

I will require all payments before I start the project because I'll be damned if I'm going to be stuck with any if people pull out after the material is bought and so on.

Check my trader rating, I'm not going to rip you off, I'm a committee member of Vic SAU, so they trust me, and so on and so on.

Before you ask, the price is the price. No question.

Please deposit the funds as such

Account Name

Peter N Blythe

Back of Melbourne/Westpac

BSB: 733 382

ACC: 586817

Amount $110

Please put your user name into the description of the deposit.

If you deposit the money at a bank, please ensure they also do this.

If you do not want the ducts and your name is in the list, please let me know so I'm not waiting on your payment.

I would like to apologise for the delay in getting this to the final stage, but I came up against a few obstacles on the way.

Thanks

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72616-bass-junkys-r33-afm-to-turbo-ducts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I dont understand, if its a replacemement pipe, why will my standard pipe be changed?

Oh, I take it that my current pipe is all rubber, so I will have to trim the ends off it and use them to attach to the rest of the system?

(My car is downstars at work, I will check it out later today and it should make sense)

I take it that it will change the induction noise somehow, in what way exactly?

bass i sent u my air duct 6 months ago so u could play around with it and even use it as your base model to work on i sent this for free to u i even paid for the postage i have asked u twice to send it back as im selling my old motor and that is a piece which im putting in with it so i ask again send back my air duct piece or at least PM me whats going on

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...