Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got $650 on the diff, but a local guy is pretty keen and looking tomorrow.

Front bar is sold

I have the bonnet latch mechanism, but I think another local was interested. ask again in a few days.

Have I missed anybody's question..

If so, sorry can you ask it again.

Thanks all. The response has been awesome, If only you were all local I'd have sold everything!!!

Oh I do have both front guards but the RHS one is in need of a heap of repair but can be repaired. The LHS on has a dent in the top and is an easy repair. Pick up only on these, $200 and 3 days of panel beating for anyone thats up to it.

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have 4 really good door trims with the grey suede lining for $100 all 4, pickup only

Excellent carpet $50 pickup only

Intercooler $700 pick up only excellent condition. will throw every bit of 3 inch plubing

Still got both diffs and both tailshafts...

Still got gearbox and clutch $offers?

Have LHS indicator $75

All glass, both doors all electrics etc

Anyone want the complete attessa system (gearbox/clutch/front and rear diffs, both tailshafts, atessa pump 3 driveshafts (sold the FRS one) $2000 negotiable pick up only

Anyone want to start building a race car with the empty shell $offers

I may remove the rear quarter panels if someone wants to pay a decent price for them $offers

Hey, do you have the rear quarter window surround interior pannels?

Also, do you have the fuel pump?

I'm in adelaide, so i can come pick it up asap.

Cheers,

Nathan

Do you need both surrounds?

Fuel pump sold

Turbos and injectors available if anyones inteested $offers

hi mate, what's the drivers door glass like? if it's ok and the price is right I'll take it. I'm in sydney but have a mate in adelaide I can get to pick-up.

Sold the air vents, could have sold them 20 times over

no front pipes and the dumps are standard.

what gearbox surrond were you after?

I sold the leather boot bit but have the other stuff.

need to look at the glass tonight to see if theres any scratches and I'll get back. If its sweet, I'll be after $100

I think the rear handles are there, i'll check tonight

Sold the air vents, could have sold them 20 times over

no front pipes and the dumps are standard.

what gearbox surrond were you after?  

I sold the leather boot bit but have the other stuff.

need to look at the glass tonight to see if theres any scratches and I'll get back. If its sweet, I'll be after $100

I think the rear handles are there, i'll check tonight

Its a plastic bit that holds the leather part from coming out below is a pic

7799c40f87.jpg

Ive still got some really good stuff

mirrors $50 ea

window mechansims complete $100 ea

glass $100 each

rear steering rack $50

front rack $150

crossmembers $50 ea

power steer pump $50

gearbox with clutch and front driveshaft $950

Intercooler $650

tailshaft $150

power steer pump $50

ABS unit $200

Atessa pump $200

front diff $200

excellent carpet $50

excellent doors $130 ea

buyer to pick up or arrange freight if possible

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...