Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a set of fedral 595's 23545ZR17 treadwear 240. and usually run 38psi. but have tried anything from 30 to 40psi.

they are on my R32 with the following relevant mods:

RB30DET producing 270rwkw 650nm torque

king low springs and fairly good shocks. cant remember if they are koni or bilstien,

solid alloy cradle bushes, adjustable swaybar set to medium, 2 - way (might as well be locked) nismo sss 2 - way diff

so my setup really should hold traction no problems. it did with the rb20det making 240rwkw but 1/2 the torque.

now with the rb30det there is no traction in 1st, 2nd and it breaks loose in 3rd even in a dead strait line

this means the car really is not that fast as you just cant get the power down. going lighter on the throttle increases lag and dosen't help.

What I need is some more traction. now don't get me wrong the fedrals are pretty good but don't do the job.

I can only go as wide as 265 before i get into clearance issues so i am looking at some 265's that can be used for street use. I don't mind if the treadwear is not the best.

is there something wring with my setup?

i know the alloy cradle bushed will not be helping but they eliminate axle tramp and i don't feel like pulling out my whole rear cradle at the moment.

cheers!

I dont think there is much wrong with you steup, nearly 300kw is always going to be hard to put down in a 32, let alone with a 30 bottom end

Going 265's will make the grip much better, you should think about heading towards a 595 rs-r, which is almost a semicomp and are still very reasonably priced.

Other than that softer springs and stuff in the rear

CEF11E,

What turbo your running?

I quite like mine at the moment as it is fairly friendly when it comes to throttle control.

The highflows are just nasty on the rb30's they punch way too hard through the mid range.

CEF11E,

What turbo your running?

I quite like mine at the moment as it is fairly friendly when it comes to throttle control.

The highflows are just nasty on the rb30's they punch way too hard through the mid range.

yep that's what I ma running :P a sliding RB25 hiflow.

its probably not doing my gearbox and diff a lot of good having that much power come on with such a kick,

Really do consider pushing in some cradle rake; when it wheel spins it noticeably still accelerates.

Prior it felt like it sat on the spot and wheel spun.

The Toyo Proxes 4 do have quite a soft side wall and the rubber is quite soft to touch. They have a 200 tread wear.

I'll be grabbing a set of RA1's on a second set of rims. Still in the size of 225/50/16's; I'm 'fairly' confident they will hold 300rwkw given these cheapo Proxes 4 are doing extremely well with 268rwkw as it is but obviously its not coming on as strong as yours. :D

Federal SS595

I had a problem after about 5 laps they were getting slick and loved to understeer. At abou 28-30 psi it got better, but still horrible

great drift tires though

Sounds about right, the T1R's arent cheap... Shop around though.

yeah

I just had a mate ring up for the same tyres at his work and quoted me $300 per corner, looks like ill grab therm at that price

just makes me wonder how much of a markup beaurepairs had on them :P

I have a set of fedral 595's 23545ZR17 treadwear 240. and usually run 38psi. but have tried anything from 30 to 40psi.

they are on my R32 with the following relevant mods:

RB30DET producing 270rwkw 650nm torque

king low springs and fairly good shocks. cant remember if they are koni or bilstien,

solid alloy cradle bushes, adjustable swaybar set to medium, 2 - way (might as well be locked) nismo sss 2 - way diff

so my setup really should hold traction no problems. it did with the rb20det making 240rwkw but 1/2 the torque.

now with the rb30det there is no traction in 1st, 2nd and it breaks loose in 3rd even in a dead strait line

this means the car really is not that fast as you just cant get the power down. going lighter on the throttle increases lag and dosen't help.

What I need is some more traction. now don't get me wrong the fedrals are pretty good but don't do the job.

I can only go as wide as 265 before i get into clearance issues so i am looking at some 265's that can be used for street use. I don't mind if the treadwear is not the best.

is there something wring with my setup?

i know the alloy cradle bushed will not be helping but they eliminate axle tramp and i don't feel like pulling out my whole rear cradle at the moment.

cheers!

CEF11E

Its the torque that is causing your traction problems, it will be hard to harness anything with over 600nm at the wheels, however if you were to go up to the 595RS-R you would notice a considerable amount more traction.

Nathan Weissel (305rwkw), Trent Whyte (440rwkw) and Eugene Arendsen (270rwkw) all drift on the 595RS or RS-R and all love them, they're able to get plenty of grip and control in slides and they even won the team drift at Eastern Creek at round 4 of D/A using them.

The RS-R is a softer compound semi slick version of the 595 and would suit your setup much more.

I hope this helps :thumbsup:

post-17958-1215672307_thumb.jpg

hey guys. Im a bit over whelmed with trying to figure out what brand of tire and size would best suit me.

Im using r33 gtr rims on my r32. 17x9 from memory.

Im after a good all rounder. A good tire for street driving, but will hold on for those spirited hills drives and the track day here and there. Im not too sure on size either, i currently have 215/45's on all around. there is a lot of stretch. I was thinking something more on the lines of a 225/45? This will give a bit more tire to the road but will still have a good look.

I was looking on spending around $800 or so. I had toyo's in mind.

ANY advice and words of wisdom are appreciated.

Cheers, Josh

Edited by Lock_to_lock

^^^^

Hi Josh,

For $800, you probably can't go wrong with the Toyo Proxes-4.

The jury is still out about just how good the new Bridgestone RE001 Adrenalins are but they won't be quite down to the price you're after. And the ADVANs & NEOs are way above that budget. Even Kumho K104s have been undercut by Toyo.

So bang-for-your-bucks you're heading the right direction eh?

Cheers, T

  • 2 weeks later...
hey guys. Im a bit over whelmed with trying to figure out what brand of tire and size would best suit me.

Im using r33 gtr rims on my r32. 17x9 from memory.

Im after a good all rounder. A good tire for street driving, but will hold on for those spirited hills drives and the track day here and there. Im not too sure on size either, i currently have 215/45's on all around. there is a lot of stretch. I was thinking something more on the lines of a 225/45? This will give a bit more tire to the road but will still have a good look.

I was looking on spending around $800 or so. I had toyo's in mind.

ANY advice and words of wisdom are appreciated.

Cheers, Josh

Its highly unlikely that you will be able to get 225/45R17 Toyo's for $200 each... I believe that they retail for anywhere up to $290.00 in that size.

I wouldnt be going under 235/45R17 on a 9" wide rim either.

has any1 looked into the new toyo R1Rs http://www.toyo.com.au/Proxes%20R1R.htm. i know they might b expencive as im goin 2 b getting new rims soon and want 2 put a decent tyre on them as i do a bit of spirited driving and am gona be doing supersprints and an occasional track dayand want sumthing reasonable.

When i get back up and running i'm looking at a full slick or semi, car wont be on the street really.

looking ar around 300-400 per corner, or less

Hoosier r6, bf goodridge r1, A048, or any suggestions? i think i would rather try a full slick

looking on tirerack there is a bit of a selection but i am sure they could source more.

seems your paying around 100 shipping per tyre if its even worth it....

255/40/17 or there abouts.. on a R32 Gtr...

I use the 595RS every now and then for the street but mainly for the track, there are also a LOT of members using the RS for hillclimb and track events in the ACT forum, you should ask around in there.

Basically the 595 is a street tyre and not really meant for track use, however it will give you a bit of fun for a while, just dont expect to put down your best times.

595's are excellent for drift though, we have had multiple drifters tell us that they are one of the best tyres to drift on.

595RS is 2 steps up from the 595 in regards to track use, the RS has a much softer tread compound and has a much stiffer tread face due to a "low void ratio", this makes for a better footprint on the road while under hard braking, cornering, acceleration.

The RS is much much better for dry traction than the 595 but is a bit of a compromise in the wet (as any semi-slick is), if youre planning on using the RS as a street tyre you probably wont get the most out of them though (even though they have heaps of grip) as they work the best when they're hot (about 60 - 70 degrees).

Have a look at - www.federaltyres.com.au, www.federaltire.com.tw or www.federaltire.com for more info.

I hope that helps :(

The reason why I did not choose the rs's is because of their and your defamatory statements about them being a semi slick, they are not a proper semi-slick, they are a good tyre dont get me wrong but you should do some more research and stop with the lies.

I'll be grabbing a couple R1R's to throw on the back after the final tune. $230 a pop for 225/50 16's.

Apparently damn close to the RA1's in straight line grip but slightly softer sidewalls.

just picked me up a set of these on the weekend, awsome tyre so far. paid $218 per corner at tyre power seven hills in 225/50/16's, they've only been on the car for a few days but the improvement in cornering ability is very noticable, previously i was running toyo t1r's and although they're a very good tyre they just dont compare to the R1R's.

will deffinately be getting another set of these once they wear out. perfect if you dont want a full on semi slick

The reason why I did not choose the rs's is because of their and your defamatory statements about them being a semi slick, they are not a proper semi-slick, they are a good tyre dont get me wrong but you should do some more research and stop with the lies.

Open forums are wonderful places to air opinions and personal perceptions. They are also a place to pass on experience and knowledge to a broad base audience regarding new product opportunities.

Manufacturer consultation, personal experience, track days, and detailed feedback given to me are the basis for my comments and winners are grinners, so at the end of the day the product will be the ultimate governor of what works and what doesn’t.

Good luck with your tyre choice. :rofl:

I don't think you can defame yourself either... :action-smiley-069:

They are what they are. Even if they are the least grippy semi slick, they probably last the longest and they probably out grip plenty of more expensive street tyres. Tyre choice on one level is quite like turbo choice, you slide up and down a scale of:

Grip------------Longevity

Where you sit on that scale is personal choice. With turbos your scale is:

Laggy but powerful-----------Less power but less lag.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...