Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Incase anyone is interested in weight differences i did a comparision with a quality set of bathroom digital scales. Wheels are stock 16 x 8's

Be4 with 50% tread left on 2yr old Falken 329's = 18.5kg

After with new R1R's = 18.2kg

That was weighing two different wheels each time.

I realised after it was too late but i should of weighed all x4 together but anyhow i did expect the r1r's to be significantly heavier with the thicker casing, just goes to show the difference in the quality of rubber used i spose

Mike

Edited by Mike__
Incase anyone is interested in weight differences i did a comparision with a quality set of bathroom digital scales. Wheels are stock 16 x 8's

Be4 with 50% tread left on 2yr old Falken 329's = 18.5kg

After with new R1R's = 18.2kg

That was weighing two different wheels each time.

I realised after it was too late but i should of weighed all x4 together but anyhow i did expect the r1r's to be significantly heavier with the thicker casing, just goes to show the difference in the quality of rubber used i spose

Mike

Not to be picky but you obviously measured these with the tyres fitted to the wheels?... The difference in weight is only 300grams - this could be mostly due to a different amount of balancing weights used.

yes tyres fitted to wheels when weighing. Can't recall exact weights prior but they were similar to what i listed below. They may have been a little less as they were the 'clip on' type and hence sat further away from the centre of the wheel than the now stick on type

Just checked total of counterweights on all 4's with the new tyres: 25g, 45g, 55g & 80g

Scales have been consistant in the past but they do only round to 100gm so the difference could be less. Yes i could have weighed x 2 heavier wheels be4 & x 2 lighter ones after without realising & the difference would be less but either way i did expect them to be heavier, but was not the case

Mike

Edited by Mike__

Federal 595SS 235/45/17 on a 9.5" rim.

When I first got them I could do 5k launches in the dry with 150rwkw, it would just chirp a bit and take off like an awd. After about 3 weeks of this they turned to shit, could barely do a mild launch. After 2 months they were f**ked, even though 75% tread left, sliding everywhere. In the wet it was another story, would spin up 3rd gear coming onto boost, pretty scary when you didn't expect it.

The fact they were stretched so much probably contributed to the bad wear.

I've used 2nd hand tyres and had one put on back to front that gripped better than these in the wet.

Edited by Rolls
Federal 595SS 235/45/17 on a 9.5" rim.

When I first got them I could do 5k launches in the dry with 150rwkw, it would just chirp a bit and take off like an awd. After about 3 weeks of this they turned to shit, could barely do a mild launch. After 2 months they were f**ked, even though 75% tread left, sliding everywhere. In the wet it was another story, would spin up 3rd gear coming onto boost, pretty scary when you didn't expect it.

The fact they were stretched so much probably contributed to the bad wear.

I've used 2nd hand tyres and had one put on back to front that gripped better than these in the wet.

I had a really nice dinner last week...

Saved some put it in the fridge and reheated it the night after and surprisingly it tasted a bit better than fresh, but I suppose it was starting to mix the ingredients more.

The next night I reheated some more but it didn’t taste the same and I felt a little queezy afterwards but put that down to the beer.

On the last night I reheated it again and after the first mouthful I all near gargled and chucked.

Do you think I blamed the original meal or the Chef?

Sure, as cooling it down to near freezing then reheating it to near boiling three times surely couldn’t have made it go off. I have had take away that could be reheated more times than that……Sound familiar?

Changing the characteristics of a tyre with excessive forces, heat and cold also changes the performance characteristics.

One reason why in premium motor sport events they change tyres well before they are worn out or damaged. You cant short cut your way to the top.

I hope this helps explain what happened to your tyres. :bunny:

Further to Bullet 32's post, new tyres should always be "worn in" for a minimum of 500klm before any heavy use (launches-track work) is attempted or the tyre will go off as you describe.

I have some "got no $ specials" Federal 595SS 255/40/17 on the ass of mine atm am pushing a lot more power through the rears than you and was just thinking y/day in over 20 yrs of driving they have to be the best bang for buck tyre I've come across. Very competant and predictable. I bought them as a stop gap (r.w.c) with the intent of uprading when things pick up again, doubt I'll bother now.

Kumho KU31 (Previously owned)

225/40R18

Dry Handling 7/10

Wet Handling 7/10

Value 8.5/10

A good mid-range tyre that suited road use fine and are great for a car without too much power. They got a tad noisy but value for money you can't really go past them.

Ling Long somethings (Put on to get compliance, not my choice!)

Dry Handling 3.5/10

Wet Handling 1.5/10

Value 3/10

I guess you get what you pay for. Extremely hard compund, noisy and very little grip. Also hard to balance. The very next day after I got my car I took it into work and had to get them balanced again. It took a good balance from a very good balancing machine (Hunter Road Force) before I could get them to spin up nicely.

When I get some new wheels/tyres I will either be upgrading to Toyo Proxes R-1R's or Pirelli PZero Rosso's (Depending on what I can get the Pirellis for).

Edited by Hank Scorpio
Changing the characteristics of a tyre with excessive forces, heat and cold also changes the performance characteristics.

One reason why in premium motor sport events they change tyres well before they are worn out or damaged. You cant short cut your way to the top.

I hope this helps explain what happened to your tyres. :)

Well to be honest they were still better than expected, they only cost $135 each, I was impressed at the initial grip, but I thought even with rough treatment they wouldn't wear out that fast.

Hey guys I'm looking to get some new tyres for my GTR. Need to be 263/35/18. Car is street driven so I want something that I'll get decent mileage out of. Looking at spending around $400 - 450 per corner. Anything under that is a bonus :banana:

Further to Bullet 32's post, new tyres should always be "worn in" for a minimum of 500klm before any heavy use (launches-track work) is attempted or the tyre will go off as you describe.

I have some "got no $ specials" Federal 595SS 255/40/17 on the ass of mine atm am pushing a lot more power through the rears than you and was just thinking y/day in over 20 yrs of driving they have to be the best bang for buck tyre I've come across. Very competant and predictable. I bought them as a stop gap (r.w.c) with the intent of uprading when things pick up again, doubt I'll bother now.

how much were these tyres.. im after same profile set..

  • 2 weeks later...

just got hooked up with a new set of 4x Marshall Matrac Tx Ku-17

sport profile, 235-45-17", meant to be a direct competitor to my old hankook k104 ventus tyres

$130 ea fitted and balanced

I will update my thoughts in a weeks time, cant boot it till after mid-week tune time

then again in a month or two..

post-18854-1237184657_thumb.jpg

what does everything think of:

-Bridgestone G3

-Bridgestone RE01

-Toyo R1R (are they semi slick?)

- Toyo T1R

Need new tyres soon and thinking of those options.

Thanks Luke

what does everything think of:

-Bridgestone G3

-Bridgestone RE01

-Toyo R1R (are they semi slick?)

- Toyo T1R

Need new tyres soon and thinking of those options.

Thanks Luke

See above for my opinion on the r1r's.

From my own research/ info from the toyo motosport dealer in perth r1r's are an old model semi slick. used 2 be called the 'trampiro' and made in 2 sizes only with a tyre wear of 100.

Now there back on the market with a tyre rating of 140 (told to make it legal for some classes?) & available in a wide range of sizes. My doing this i spose theres little R&D which keeps the cost down.

tyre shape is very 'square'. my 225/50/16's have a slightly wider footprint than advan yokies on my brothers evo in 235's

My cars only driven on w/e. i do under 4000km per yr & an occasional track day hence the choice

How much heat do you think it will take to get the 595 Rs-R working ok for street conditions.

Do you think under normal street conditions they will grip more, or less than the normal 595ss ?

Im looking for an amazing street tyre, thats going to be able to be ok on the track. I dont really want to run a street tyre + a track semi at this stage.

just got hooked up with a new set of 4x Marshall Matrac Tx Ku-17

sport profile, 235-45-17", meant to be a direct competitor to my old hankook k104 ventus tyres

$130 ea fitted and balanced

I will update my thoughts in a weeks time, cant boot it till after mid-week tune time

then again in a month or two..

post-18854-1237184657_thumb.jpg

good tyre so far

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...