Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I purchased an R33 GTR Cooler and an East Bear A31 GTR Cooler Piping Kit. I reckon paying the $500 for the GTR cooler is a better investment than $300 on a Hybrid Copy China Whistler core.

JK

lol, its funny you say that.

i have one of these hybrid copes. and in terms of cooling efficiency i think it is actually quite good... but i have noticed that it is actually whistling!

Is there a known method of stopping this. it really is quite annoying.

Cheers.

I dont think there is much in it between the two coolers but youll pay a little more for a GTR cooler and they will both work well. I think youll have to be more concerned with organising the piping for the GTR kit you ll prob have to get it made up, where as the Hybrid kit comes with everything all together. The way the inlet and outlet pipes are designed are different. The GTR cooler inlet and outlet fold back a little from memory where as the Hybrid just stick straight out from the cooler. This something you will have to take into consideration when organising the piping kit. As for the whistling, not all of them whistle.

  • 3 weeks later...

appoligies to dig up an oldish topic, but it had just come to relevance for me

I have a R33GTR intercooler sitting about, it is slightly damaged. Im not sure if i should go a genuine hybrid or stick with the GTR cooler. Big pickle im in. do real hybrids whistle? Any furthur opinion, but more welcome- evidence one is better than the other?

go the GTR cooler as it will flow alot better than any Hybrid cooler (unless its very damaged of course!)

:(

ahhahahahahahahhahaha!!!

do you really think you would notice the differences between a gtr cooler and a hybird one?

How can anyone turn away a hybird cooler it cost around $200-$300, i havnt had any problems with mine and it flows good :) u pay that or more for a SECOND HAND gtr cooler

Im not sure personally but this is the general idea ive noticed around the forums.

A REAL Hybrid cooler will cost u similar to what a GTR cooler will cost, a China cooler may whistle which piss's ppl off!

But im glad u thought it was so amusing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...