Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What modifications would needed to be done for a RB26 conversion into an 180sx?

Also, how much money would it cost? I know that an RB26DETT r32 from JustJaps is $6500(give or take a few hundred), is there any other costs i should consider keeping in mind that i can do most of the minor adjustments myself.

Also, added to this engine conversion, is it possible to turn this 180sx RWD into a GTR AWD? Again, what would is needed to be done to make this happen?

thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73034-180sx-rb26-conversion-question/
Share on other sites

Engine mounts, R33 GTSt gearbox (identical internally to R33 GT-R gearboxes less the front transfer case for AWD), radiator (stock 180SX radiators won't cope with an RB26), ECU, brake upgrade (to atleast R33 GTSt spec), new intercooler piping, new front pipes for exhaust made up, and getting the whole thing engineered + roadworthied.

No you can't turn the 180SX into AWD, well, not without truckloads of money

It's cheaper to dump an RB20 or RB25 (or some hybrid of those two) into the 180SX.

Also, why ditch the stock CA18 (89-91) and SR20 (91-97) engines anyway? They're great engines with heaps of potential (except the CA18's are getting a bit old now..)

I assume the halfcut would come with wiring, ecu, intercooler, radiator, but most don't come with brakes.

halfcut ($6500)

r32 crossmember ($150-250)

modified sump ($300-500)

r33 gtst gearbox ($1200-1500)

flywheel and clutch ($500-1000)

machine speedo drive sensor ($?)

custom tailshaft ($500)

brake upgrade ($600-2000)

intercooler piping ($400-800)

exhaust ($400-1000)

fuel pump ($200-400)

mating wiring looms ($350)

Labour ($0-3000)

So you're looking at about 11k bare minimum to 16k for good clutch, s/s exhaust and i/c piping and labour. Zoom did the conversion themselves and it cost them 11.5k.

Umm I've seen an RB25DET NEO for sale on this forum for 3000. Whole package apart from loom, which is like 350 max from wreckers.

I've seen an SR20DET including everything for 1400 on a forum. You could just buy an RB25DET and find someone who knows how to do the job and get mates rates. If not see the quote on RB25DET into 180SX. RB20 is not worth it.

<180sx purist>Why do this? The SR20DET is capable of assloads of power if you want, especially with the cost of a RB26 conversion. With some internal mods, you could pull over 500rwkw from it. See Theo's S15 drag car - does 9's with an S13 SR20DET. And I saw 2 180's at Autosalon doing 333rwkw, one with just a HKS 3030something turbo and FMIC (not that it would last every day at that boost). Besides, the added weight of the RB26 will wreck the balance of the car, and overall make it heavier (thus requiring more power). < /180sx purist>

But if you want to do it, do it. It will be interesting! :cheers:

platenewb']What modifications would needed to be done for a RB26 conversion into an 180sx?

Also, how much money would it cost? I know that an RB26DETT r32 from JustJaps is $6500(give or take a few hundred), is there any other costs i should consider keeping in mind that i can do most of the minor adjustments myself.

Also, added to this engine conversion, is it possible to turn this 180sx RWD into a GTR AWD? Again, what would is needed to be done to make this happen?

thanks in advance.

mate done the engine conversion and theres lots involved so prepare to dig deep

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...