Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just replaced mine (32 gts-t)

DBA slotted were quoted around $200 a disc... I was thinking this was going to be costly exercise but needed it done as my rotors were warped from when the car was imported.

I ended up with ventilated Brembo's for $65 each! (new). I replaced the front rotors only and put new brake pads on. Works a treat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73299-new-rotors-r32/#findComment-1356783
Share on other sites

thanks guys, this is what i was after, i bought a set of DBA slotted rotors for the hr30 about 18 months ago and they were 340 each, the first set they had made for a r30 skyline, i've now upgraded the fronts to r32 gts-t's 4 pots and rotors and was hoping that new rotors would be alot cheaper.

DBA will make a set of r32 rotors in the 4x114.3 for a bit more $$ wont they?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73299-new-rotors-r32/#findComment-1356876
Share on other sites

thanks guys, this is what i was after, i bought a set of DBA slotted rotors for the hr30 about 18 months ago and they were 340 each, the first set they had made for a r30 skyline, i've now upgraded the fronts to r32 gts-t's 4 pots and  rotors and was hoping that new rotors would be alot cheaper.  

DBA will make a set of r32 rotors in the 4x114.3 for a bit more $$ wont they?

Is it hard to replace front rotors, and is there instructions online?

Thanks

al

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73299-new-rotors-r32/#findComment-1364729
Share on other sites

I put DBA rotors on the front and some protec cheapy's on the rear as I was unable to soruce DBA rear rotors for the R32 anywhere in Adelaide. :)

From memory the front DBA rotors varied in price massively.

Cheapest place to buy DBA rotors from In Adelaide are Motor Mates.

Where did you source yours from Pablo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73299-new-rotors-r32/#findComment-1365047
Share on other sites

ended up getting quotes, from autobarn for DBAs and glodal auto spares for RDA,

the fronts with DBA were 325 slotted and with RDA it was 283 for the slotted, the biggest difference was the rears for my hr30 were 269 for the DBAs' and 135 for the RDAs' both slotted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73299-new-rotors-r32/#findComment-1365288
Share on other sites

It seams the smaller houses will get these parts cheaper as they want you to ome back and use their services, so shop around. Perth Brakes Australia is one of the bigest suspension and brake places in WA and they wanted $2656 for each rotor. HA? So go see if there are garages that tune and race their cars as they will be more connected with manufacturers and sponsors at the same time.

Al

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73299-new-rotors-r32/#findComment-1365361
Share on other sites

Just replaced mine (32 gts-t)

DBA slotted were quoted around $200 a disc...  I was thinking this was going to be costly exercise but needed it done as my rotors were warped from when the car was imported.

I ended up with ventilated Brembo's for $65 each! (new).  I replaced the front rotors only and put new brake pads on.  Works a treat.

$65? what the? where from mate?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73299-new-rotors-r32/#findComment-1378375
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
    • I didn't actually try it at the time but a Launch X431 with the appropriate software licenses/upsell will have the ABS bleed function. The Consult II you can still find some old sets of equipment but they're really, really expensive:   
    • Well I'll start by saying I'm not an engineer. I am going to go with the KiwiCNC ones.  They are made of 7050 alloy have good fillets and radius.  The material alone is in the order of double the strength and fatigue resistance - Those bolts, once torqued correctly place most of the load at the flat face of the mating surface - the 'stretch' you're talking about through torqueing them up would be far more than the extra stretch 'load' placed on them from a steering input or bump. (in my opinion) so I doubt they would flinch.    - but again "not an engineer".      oh and I don't think stitch welding 7050 is a good idea, likely just weaken the material (from what I read)
×
×
  • Create New...