Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes CEF11E is correct. It was difficult to tell by the pics but it appears that the nit is connected corerctly to the actuator but cannont clearly see if you have other barb connected to compressor side of turbo. I believe its in the way it is installed that is the problem, perhaps you have the wrong line at wrong point..

Mark

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

From the picture i can see the solanoid is still connected. I would advise to disconnect it. As i have never seen under the bonnet of an r34 i cant see where all those connections are going.

if you wanted to test it and isolate the the problem.

1. look at the turbo compressor housing. these should be a hose coming off it connect this to the BOTTOM of the boost controller and leave the other side connected to the actuator as you have it.

ok so controller to wastegate actuator con is ok.

where the T piece is the are 2 hoses con. The top one cons to the bottom of the solenoid.

The bottom T piece con connects to the turbo pipe (pipe beneath air intake pipe bout the same diam).The other pipe not con to the T piece comes from a silver pipe below and cons to the top of the solenoid.

The 3 pipes are all within that black platic sheath secured by plastic tie.

So with this in mind u say:

1. leave con from control to wastegate.

2. Disconect the top T piece con that goes to bottom solenoid con.

3. Connect bottom (thicker) T piece con to the controller directly (the one that goes to turbo pipe)

4. Disconnect the other pipe (from silver pipe below, not con to T piece) that goes to top of solenoid.

So basically take solenoid out of equation. Is this going to cause any problems? Thanks all for your patience just want to verify before I go out and do this. LOL I'll get there one day I hope!

lol mate i can make one for $9. u can get everything u need from a good hardware store...

Finding the components is the easy part making them to precisley control boost is by far something else. A number of people have tried to copy without success and caused damage to engines.

If I give you all the materials to build a house can you build it right???

There is always someone that likes to be a goose.....

Mark

As other guys have said boosts earlier and holds very well and holds it in a stable manner. Basically, even on idle the boost guage does not sit near zero anymore its like 1/5 of the way up. Torque builds quickly making the turbo more usable = better average power. I only have this and K&N Panel and I've noticed a good difference in limited testing.

Working installation on R34 below. Happy to help as others have helped me, as u can see I had some dramas :rofl: But all good now. Mmm perhaps I should plug up that T piece. Next step for me is full CES Racing zorst, should get the silver service taxi moving nicely.

Picture_0121.jpg

even on idle the boost guage does not sit near zero anymore its like 1/5 of the way up

That would indicate you previously had a vacuum leak, idle and light throttle should sit under zero, moderate throttle should be zero plus. :rofl:

Yes could have exagerated that point in retrospect (guess i was excited at finally getting it working). I think that the guage does sit higher on idle than it used to though or am i just imaging this? Certainly easier to get that turbo whistle happening in either case. Think I might have to take it out tonight again, possibly up a few hills. All in the name of testing of course :kewl:

i still say this is THE BEST boost controller i have ever seen i cant get over it

congradulations to simark87 for the design and engineering of the product

this is my hands down the most bang for buck i have bought for the car also 100% reliable and effective and safe

so if i have dialled in 15psi or 20psi thats all im going to get no more no less no spikes no shit

congratulations!!

matt

boostcont0037vy.jpg

boostcont0028cg.jpg

Hi guys,

Glad you all like it.

Special for skyliners remians at $28 expresss delivered in AUS.

Just email me at [email protected] with your oder adn address, I will then send you my details and supply a ref number.

Cheers all,

You lot make me want to trade in my cordia for a skyline...lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...