Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was boosting last night and something was suss...

Was spiking up 3psi!!!

Runs 15psi but was spiking up to 18psi when boosting hard in third.

Going to test again tonight to sus this out before making a final judgement on whether or not to put my GFB Bleeder back on which spikes 1psi.

Hmmm... seemed to work fine when I first installed it...

just a question are you still running it with the stock solenoid???

if your boost is spiking at higher revs in 3rd this could be attributed to the duel stage nature of the factory solenoid.

how do you bypass the factory solenoid ???

does ne1 have any instructions for this???

and does ne1 think that doing said modifications will break my baby???

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Quote:

Originally Posted by simark87

Hi Guys, I will be offline until tuesday night in case anyone is chasing me..

Just a reminder to those who did not use a reference number when depositing for the boost controller. I still have 6 payments for which I don't know who they are from. To date, not one person has made contact about this

Cheers all

Mark

One of them is me! What do i do?

Just a note to people. Remember the number Mark gives you! I bought a controller off him and it arrived no problems.

He's doing the right thing by you so help him out a bit huh?

anyone got any installation pics on an R32 GTSt? I think I'm right but would like to see someone elses to be sure.....

installed mine today! Its running ~12PSI. Drops to 11PSI near redline though no fault of the boost controller more a turbo thing... Pulls very well, boost comes on no earlier but it does come on stronger. However I did give myself a 3rd degree burn on the dump after the runs trying to tighten the lock nut. :D

oh well, you live and learn.

cheers

simark .. i made my deposit on thursday morning june 9 i put my reference number in the netbank form ....but since it was a public holiday yesterday ..perhaps it'll be here this arvo or tommorrow.. if not i'll email you directly.

Matt

I do have one problem with the controller Mark, its upped the power and had caused my clutch to slip hardcore in 4th, might have to fix that :) he he.

Still not over it, took it to work today, what a difference to before. (when the clutch grips)

is anyone else experiencing the problem dee33 is having with boost spiking from 15psi to 18 psi? cause i bought mine already and cant wait to put it in but just worried of this happening to me cause im already on 13.5psi with stock turbo and dont want any spiking.

Nah I can get some on the weekend though...

I can explain it for now.

You'll have to remove the two intercooler pipes between the turbo and the carbon canister to be able to get access to the wastegate actuator. I unhooked the hose from the wastegate actuator and then plugged this into the bottom of the boost controller. I then ran a length of fuel hose (what I had) from the side nipple on the boost controller to the wastegate actuator.

The controller sits up right next to the passenger side strut tower. Took me a little while cause there is zero room to move near the turbo.

Just took it out after that and it was just a matter of fine tuning. Be warned it does locate the boost controller within 8 inches of the exhaust housing and that gets hot after a couple of runs. :D

A better idea might be to get a joiner thing that you can join two hoses together to bring the controller further away, might help in the fine tuning stages. Either way, it works fine and is well hidden out of prying eyes. If the boys wanna get down there to have a look they can be my guest :D he he

EDIT: tried to get pics but you can't see anything, there's too much crap around it. Follow the instructions and you should be fine, its pretty straightforward.

is anyone else experiencing the problem dee33 is having with boost spiking from 15psi to 18 psi? cause i bought mine already and cant wait to put it in but just worried of this happening to me cause im already on 13.5psi with stock turbo and dont want any spiking.

Run lower base boost then even if you get a spike you will save ur turbo exhaust wheel from ending up in your cat.

Got mine yesterday will install it in the turbo diesel and see how it goes.

i'm getting mine soon.. I cant wait. However, I got a question for you guys.. I have a R32 GTS-T, and I've done no mods to it except a pod filter and a boost gauge. Its running 11psi at the moment(I have never boosted it).. What do you think i should boost it up to, keepinging in mind i got the stock intercooler. I dont want to blow the engine or the turbo so any help would be much appreciated.

Thankyou guys.

i'm getting mine soon..  I cant wait.  However,  I got a question for you guys.. I have a R32 GTS-T, and I've done no mods to it except a pod filter and a boost gauge.  Its running 11psi at the moment(I have never boosted it).. What do you think i should boost it up to, keepinging in mind i got the stock intercooler.  I dont want to blow the engine or the turbo so any help would be much appreciated.

Thankyou guys.

personlly, with 11psi and the stock intercooler i wouldn't increase it at all just yet. on an rb20 i think 12-14psi is safe if you have a FMIC but you don't

really, its up to you - its your car

14psi is great........ fitted mine today.. didnt expect it to run 14psi ... but gave my a surprise when the boost came in.. and fuel cut got me in 2nd :D

its still dropping psi off at top end like b4 ..bout 2-3psi after it makes full boost..not too fussed.. only stock turbo ....got it back to 12 ..goes nicely. no fuel cut yet ..

Matt

Angry...

What turbo are you running?

I've found the stock RB20DET turbo has issues holding more than 12.5-13psi.

A nice free flowing 3.5" does help quite a bit.

The Rb20DET turbo on the rb30det has issues holding more than 9psi.

So its definitely a turbo issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...