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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!


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Here the dyno figure when the controller installed last Saturday. First run without SAFC @ max 9 psi gave me 179kw, boost was very stable at this run. After SAFC it made 212kw boost peaked @ 13 psi then droped to about 11. Overall I think the controller is pretty effective for holding boost. Haven't read the rest of the thread but was wondering if anyone tried this unit with a bigger turbo, does it still work well?

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Here the dyno figure when the controller installed last Saturday. First run without SAFC @ max 9 psi gave me 179kw, boost was very stable at this run. After SAFC it made 212kw boost peaked @ 13 psi then droped to about 11. Overall I think the controller is pretty effective for holding boost. Haven't read the rest of the thread but was wondering if anyone tried this unit with a bigger turbo, does it still work well?

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Hi Guys, Mark here,

Its always awseome to hear of the perormance gains from the turbotech. It really is amazing to hear people talk so much about something I made so thanks fo the buzz :blink:

I heard a few people have had trouble making contact. As far as I know I have caught up with everyone now. Three times in the last 10 days I have not been able to 'reply' to emails although I can receive them ok. Thsis is very frustrating as people are trying to reach me and there is nothing I can do.

Our ADSL is working well now so I hope it continues to.

Let me just clear up how I do the sales:

Emails:

Once I get an inquiry I send a response and ref number with banking details. Then, the buyer needs to email me their address once the deposit is made i don't normally send another email unless there is a problem or I am asked another question.

Deposits:

I check twice daily for deposits to match up to reference numbers and addresses. Keep in mind that deposits, depending on which bank you use, can be instant or can take up to 3 days. If making a deposit on a sat or sun it usually wont clear into our account until tuesday or wednesday.

Posting:

Once the deposit is matched to the ref number and I have received an address then it usually goes out the same day or the next by express. Sometimes thougfh I have had trouble getting a component of the controller in and there can be couple of days delay but this happens not very often.

Note 1: Express doesn't always eman overnight. Not everyone lives in the overnight zone even though they may think that they do. Speed is not the main reason I use express, it is mainly because it is trackable as sometimes they go missing and I can use teh tracking number to find out what happenned to it.

Note 2: 'reference numbers'. Sometimes people dont use theeference number that I provide when depsositing. This will always cause a major delay as it is impossible to know who made the payment.

keep in mind that I dont look for pm's much so email is the way to go [email protected]

Cheers all and thanks for your patience. I will make an effort to be in the forum a lot more.

Mark

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Hay all havent been on here for a while, but started reading about the boost controller this morning and ofter all the comments about how well it works i have decided to buy one of mark. Sent him an email this morning and got a response almost straight away. Will be sending the money on monday to mark and hopefully fitting it not long there after. Hope all goes well for everyone and i will post my results after fitting it to my R33, i will add pictures if anyone requires them. :blink:

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Here the dyno figure when the controller installed last Saturday. First run without SAFC @ max 9 psi gave me 179kw, boost was very stable at this run. After SAFC it made 212kw boost peaked @ 13 psi then droped to about 11. Overall I think the controller is pretty effective for holding boost. Haven't read the rest of the thread but was wondering if anyone tried this unit with a bigger turbo, does it still work well?

Awesome, got your car done at Matt's aye? Haha hes legendary for his SAFC tunes. I thought yours might of been one of the 4-5 cars he had lined up for SAFCII installation + tunes, but read you had yours done on Saturday instead. :P Getting my E-Manage tune by him this upcoming week hopefully.

My Turbotech drops abit near topend too. It's set to about 15/16psi and once it goes above 5500-7500rpm it drops down to about 12-13psi, this is for second and third gear. First gear it only goes up to 13psi and drops to 11-12psi at 5500-7500rpm. Don't know why it only goes up to 13 in first gear though, pretty wierd.

Is this normal Mark?

Edited by OnGsTa
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i just got my boost controller off mark.. least to say it shits over my old turbo smart bleed vale (pink one) and also my blitz electronic controller boost came as early as 2300rpm... hold 14psi well until 5000rpm drops .9-1psi very steady ... love it best thing for that money !!....

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Awesome, got your car done at Matt's aye? Haha hes legendary for his SAFC tunes. I thought yours might of been one of the 4-5 cars he had lined up for SAFCII installation + tunes, but read you had yours done on Saturday instead. :D Getting my E-Manage tune by him this upcoming week hopefully.

My Turbotech drops abit near topend too. It's set to about 15/16psi and once it goes above 5500-7500rpm it drops down to about 12-13psi, this is for second and third gear. First gear it only goes up to 13psi and drops to 11-12psi at 5500-7500rpm. Don't know why it only goes up to 13 in first gear though, pretty wierd.

Is this normal Mark?

Yeah Matt is da man when it comes to SAFC, his bread & butter. Regarding ur boost I think usually car make most power at 2nd or 3rd gear. Or it could be the cam...The turbotech itself isnt the only thing that affect the boost. Probly check hoses for anything possible boost leak first

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I have also been inspired by this thread and just couldn't resist the temptation and purchased a unit from Mark.

My car is a completely stock R33 95mdl. I have read through all the posts and call me stupid but i can't find any clear info on how to install the turbotech to a 33.

Can someone be kind enough to give a description?

The instructions are not model specific so i don't want to get it wrong and do damage.

Thanks

Peter

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Make sure you have a boost gauge fitted.

Locate the actuator, and find the hose that connects to it. Basically you have to put the MBC in series with this hose, with the spring/ball nozzle going towards the pressure source, and make sure you remove the factory electronic solenoid setup if you've got one.

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Make sure you have a boost gauge fitted.

Locate the actuator, and find the hose that connects to it. Basically you have to put the MBC in series with this hose, with the spring/ball nozzle going towards the pressure source, and make sure you remove the factory electronic solenoid setup if you've got one.

So the standard boost gauge which goes to 14psi isnt accurate enough? i only want to raise it to 9-10 so that would be just under halfway from the dash to plus 7.

Where abouts is the actuator located..?

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Make sure you have a boost gauge fitted.

Locate the actuator, and find the hose that connects to it. Basically you have to put the MBC in series with this hose, with the spring/ball nozzle going towards the pressure source, and make sure you remove the factory electronic solenoid setup if you've got one.

I understand all that,however the hose that comes off the actuator gets to a point where there is a 3 way connection. One hose goes to the intake pipe which leads to throttle body and the other one goes to solenoid.

Would i be correct to assume that if i removed the 3 way connection and replaced it with the Turbotech(fitted the way you described above) that would leave me with 1 hose from the solenoid left over.Plug the solenoid hose and hope it works.

Does that sound right?

thanks

Peter

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Would i be correct to assume that if i removed the 3 way connection and replaced it with the Turbotech(fitted the way you described above) that would leave me with 1 hose from the solenoid left over.Plug the solenoid hose and hope it works.

Does that sound right?

That does indeed sound right!!

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I connected mine between the top and bottom hoses.

the middle hose which goes to the solenoid you dont need anymore, you can just yank her off.. same with the T piece in the middle.

Also with the top hose theres a tiny metal restrictor thingy inside it. You'll need to replace that hose before it all works properly, otherwise the metal thing inside will keep restricting the boost.

This is the 3 way i was talking about.

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