Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering are you guys disconnecting the 2 stage boost control thing the R33 has??? you know its 5psi in the lower rpm ranges then goes to 7psi in the higher ranges?? If you got it set at 10psi then spikes to 12 it may be due to this factor. Just something that I thought would be worthwhile to mention :)

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

HI,

Mark here...

It's worth mentioning that sometimes when I get an email requesting details for purchase, my responses just bounce back repeatedly and there is nothing I can do... :(

And then a couple of times that guy has left a message on this forum about getting no response... :blink:

Also just a reminder that I 'rarely' check pm's so if you send me one and get no response..then you why...and I see i have a stack of them...

I work out of town too so sometimes I can get a bit behind qwith emails and post outs...

Also, sometimes my part supplier can be unable to get an essential part and there can be delays..especially with springs and the one I use can't be substituted without making a crap controller...Whatever the delay if there is one is usually for a good reason and not just coz I'm slack.. Im actually as busy as twins :(

Cheers

Mark

[email protected]

I jsut installed mine today. very impressed. With R33 theres a T piece, you remove this, you block the hose coming from the solaniod with a bolt. and from the waste gate you just plug into the controller like the pic supplied, and the other into the hose coming out of the pipe.

Yes it works :yes:

Another tip; hot water before you start on the rubber hoses loosens them up :cheers:

Ordered mine 7 days ago, How long does it take to get to Perth?

hope it comes soon :)

I would have brought one but the guy has never answered my questions of wether I can pick it up or not.......and the price has jumped to $34.90.....so I know what he can do with his boost controller.......

I got my Boost Controller today. Took a few days but came in perfect condition and with good instructions. Just waiting for my Boost Gauge now.

How long can the tubes be if you extend them to mount the controller somewhere?

I got my Boost Controller today. Took a few days but came in perfect condition and with good instructions. Just waiting for my Boost Gauge now.

How long can the tubes be if you extend them to mount the controller somewhere?

tubes can be as long as you need them to be, but the shorter the pipes the better the response from the boost controller.

I am a noob. Wanting to buy this for my stock 33 turbo. I notice that the car is meant to be hitting i think 7psi standard but rarely hits it, more like 5-6. Will getting this and say putting it to 8psi or something mean that it will hit 8psi all the time (when on full boost). Cheers. Also what is the max for safest and most reliable operation for the 33 gts-t. I am only looking to maintain a good level of boost instead of constantly getting below tha standard

stock boost gauge isnt in PSI its in MMHG and 7X100 MMHG is about 13.5/14 PSI (cant remember which exactly) You can individually adjust this controller, yes but you should invest in a boost gauge that reads in psi or bar first, because these will be more accurate and quite a bit easier to figure out, going by what other people are running. As for stock boost, im not sure but try running a search with "Safe BOOST R33" or something

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
just wondering are you guys disconnecting the 2 stage boost control thing the R33 has??? you know its 5psi in the lower rpm ranges then goes to 7psi in the higher ranges?? If you got it set at 10psi then spikes to 12 it may be due to this factor. Just something that I thought would be worthwhile to mention ;)

I thought by adding this boost controller, the two stage boost control no longer came into effect?

Can any1 show me is there any thread to teach how to install a manual boost controller?Best if wif pics...i cant find any...i just bought 1 through ebay,...i think is quite similar or totally the same wif this 1~thankx~

I dont see how hard it could be to install..

One end goes to positive boost pressure, ie inlet / ic piping

Other end goes to Wastegate actuator

of cause i could be wrong, thats how my current setup works

ive just payed for 2 of these bad boys last night (me and a mate)

hopefully give me more control over the boost

/Happy

Edited by Unkn0wn

Is this kit the Turbo tech boost controller on Ebay for $34?

Im pretty keen to get one as im getting my bosch 044 next week and my FMIC soon so ill feel comfortable running about 10.

cheers

also, i just order one of the gktech intercoolers from the group buy, would these coolers have the nipple on the ic piping where the stock one is? or would i have to get a nipple welded to the new ic piping?

another thing to addm is how exactly can this magical boost controller increase spool time?

are you sure its not the placeboi affect?

im all for trying it but im curious as to how this boost controller can reduce lag and increase spool time.

Edited by hayden49

What happens on a tradional bleeder or stock setup, is that the wastegate actuator sees a signal all the time so may trigger the wastegate to start opening early. Now what this controller does, is stop the signal from getting through to the acuator until it reaches a set point. Because the actuator dosen't get a signal, it leaves the wastegate firmly shut until the actuator sees a signal at which time it triggers the wastegate to open fully. Hense the super fast spool up.

This is a similar concept to what some EBCs can be setup to do, but dosen't have the high price tag to go with it.

An inexpensive product that actually does what it claims....took me 2 min to install with great results. Even if it did take a week to get here, it's $35 well spent. Nice one Mark cheers....

Hello Fellow Members

I just spoke to jrdsports about organising a group buy for us members on there boost controller.

He said if we can get 15+ people he will do them for $22 shipped.

Ill Start im getting 2 for freinds cars.

jrdsports said members should use reference SAU.

LINK

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JRD-Boost-Controlle...1QQcmdZViewItem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...