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Standard coils by any chance????

nope just put in heavy duty dsr ones ae. before the boost controller went in. it runs mint on the standard soleniod and 9psi on bc but doesnt like anymore then that.

but my BOV doesnt work so i think theres a vacuum problem with my car. but still doesnt explain the boost tho....

it runs good otherwise. new plugs aswell. im just stumped on this issue now

Stock BOV???

Also some cars respond well to boost increase others need a remap

no its a after market bov but its mounted on the pipe after the j pipe so looking to go front mount and put it on the standard bracket instead. im gona get new poddie aswell and see if that helps. but ran it on 9psi last night and absolutely loved it. went hard on full boost by 3000rpm and pulled all the way. so i think it has somthing to do with a vac leak somewhere.

how do i re map it? do i just reset the ecu?

thanks for this help mate

Mate get rid of the bov and put the stock one back on this will most likely be your problem VTA BOV have known issues with RB engines there a pain most times

To re map

You could try and interupt and change the air flow pulse sent to the ecu using a SAFC or neo with a wide band so you dont go bang but has no way to advance the timing beyound standard ecu maps its not really a remap as such but is easy enough to do your self

or send the ecu away for generic stage 1 2 3 blar blar blar map simple plug and play but its generic

or get a custom remap from a tuner using a laptop to re flash the ecu on a dyno this would be set up for your car to get the best out of it with mods you have Ive seen good results from custom remaps but they can be expensive

The ecu reset is a good idea after any mod you do but it eventually learns any way as its always making fine adjustments and retarding or advancing the timing.

  • 1 month later...

Email the guys who make em and tell them you are a member here and they may give you a slightly better deal. I think they gave them to me for $29 delivered.

  • 2 months later...

Found this on ebay have been waiting 10 days for delivery so far... Hope she rocks up soon, getting anxious. Bit devo'd i found it on here afterwards, a cheaper price and express post would have been nice. Although from what i have read it'll be worth the wait :P

  • 2 weeks later...
Found this on ebay have been waiting 10 days for delivery so far... Hope she rocks up soon, getting anxious. Bit devo'd i found it on here afterwards, a cheaper price and express post would have been nice. Although from what i have read it'll be worth the wait :D

Was definitley worth the wait ;) Very happy

  • 4 weeks later...
I just jumped on to buy one!

BTW, what's in the box? Do they give enough hoses?

Anyone with a GTR here used it yet?

It's just the controller you don't need any hoses. There is a t piece (well an f piece on my r34 GTT) that you take out and replace with the boost controller there is a write up on how to do it very easy job.

I'm another happy customer with this product does it's job very nicely

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey all,

I just ordered one of these. Not so much to increase boost but more so boost characteristics (reading how it helps with lag and how it holds boost etc).

My car is a virtually stock standard RB20det. Standard turbo, exhaust and ecu but with a front mount and K&N apollo filter.

What I am thinking of doing is replacing the wastegate actuator with a spare (5psi max) actuator i have in the garage, and then controlling the max boost (probably will be wound back up to standard 10psi) with the turbotech.

Does this sound like a good idea? I figure it will allow me to run standard/safe boost levels but still have the benefits of the turbotech.

Yay or nay?

Cheers,

Mark

EDIT:

I just checked the actuator arm shape on the car at the moment and it's bent... the spare I have is straight.

Would an Rb25 7psi actuator be a direct fit on the rb20 turbo?

Edited by Guest
Hey all,

I just ordered one of these. Not so much to increase boost but more so boost characteristics (reading how it helps with lag and how it holds boost etc).

My car is a virtually stock standard RB20det. Standard turbo, exhaust and ecu but with a front mount and K&N apollo filter.

What I am thinking of doing is replacing the wastegate actuator with a spare (5psi max) actuator i have in the garage, and then controlling the max boost (probably will be wound back up to standard 10psi) with the turbotech.

Does this sound like a good idea? I figure it will allow me to run standard/safe boost levels but still have the benefits of the turbotech.

Yay or nay?

Cheers,

Mark

EDIT:

I just checked the actuator arm shape on the car at the moment and it's bent... the spare I have is straight.

Would an Rb25 7psi actuator be a direct fit on the rb20 turbo?

I'm using a RB20 10 PSI on my RB25 turbo (96 model) so I'd assume so.

I might actually have to fit this one day, been sitting in the car for two years.

Edited by Traditimeour
  • 1 year later...

Hi all Im a newbie and I have a question for ya

If i wanted higher boost but only later in the rev range I would be better off with a turbosmart boost controller correct? as the turbo tech one builds boost sooner?

Edited by Kram

I can't beleive this thread has been revived again.

And am I understanding you correctly, you want MORE lag??!!

Hi all Im a newbie and I have a question for ya

If i wanted higher boost but only later in the rev range I would be better off with a turbosmart boost controller correct? as the turbo tech one builds boost sooner?

Hi all Im a newbie and I have a question for ya

If i wanted higher boost but only later in the rev range I would be better off with a turbosmart boost controller correct? as the turbo tech one builds boost sooner?

You would be better off not getting a controller and sticking with the stock one

Pretty sure it has like 5psi up to 4000 rpm then goes to 7.

Why not the whole way through the range?

Wouldnt you rather this thread got dug up rather than having a new one started every 3 months?

I am happy with the low down power of the vehicle as it is my auto 4 door family car. 5psi to 4000prm is fine, i just want more like 10-12 psi from 4000rpm up!

  • 2 weeks later...

I tried one of the new turbotech. it's called V2.

It uses a different type of ball bearing. It's soft-ish (not really soft) externally, but still very hard. Not metal.

He explained it all to me at the time. But basically it seals much better, and weighs less too, so responds quicker to the pressures applied.

The internal machining/tolerances of the main body seem more precise too.

I went from the original turbotech, which i had for quite some time, and was happy with, to using the new version about 1 year ago.

It seems like it spools up even quicker.

In my case, it overshoots by barely a couple of psi on WOT, but then settles quickly and holds steady. personally i like it this way. A bit of extra boost early on never hurts :)

Although i suspect the overboost is caused by my 10 psi actuator, which i installed around the same time. it's pretty tight and caused overboost with the original turbotech too.

Overall, i'm very happy with the V2. It hasnt given me any probs since i installed it. Basically set and forget.

This is the one:

$%28KGrHqUOKpgE5Y37EZ35BObbqlPO8w~~60_12.JPG

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