Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what is the boost range this thing effective for?

say, with coupled with r32 wastegate actuator, i assume it's 10psi upwards (to max boost of ???psi) and with r33 one from 7psi?

cheers

sam

Edited by sonoramicommando
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I ordered one almost 2 weeks ago. Said he forgot to send it, fair enough, but now almost 5 working days later again, Im still waiting.

Very very poor service, now hes not replying to my emails. I ordered this 2 weeks in advance so that I could get it on my car before it went on the dyno. Its going on the dyno tomorrow though

what is the boost range this thing effective for?

say, with coupled with r32 wastegate actuator, i assume it's 10psi upwards (to max boost of ???psi) and with r33 one from 7psi?

cheers

sam

it can give you more boost than the stock turbos can handle. think i highest i ever saw was around 18psi with a 25 turbo and actuator. but that much boost with a stock turbo is stupid :P

Hey guys, quick question.

What is the lowest boost you can set the turbo tech to?

I'm currently running a 3" turbo back exhaust with a bell mouth dump/front pipe, FMIC and pod filter.

I running stock computer as well.

I just got the turbo tech and installed it as instructed by the diagram on the 1st page of this thread.

However, I can't seem to set my boost to below 9psi. Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone know if this is normal or have I done something wrong?

Someone point me in the right direction!

Hey guys, quick question.

What is the lowest boost you can set the turbo tech to?

I'm currently running a 3" turbo back exhaust with a bell mouth dump/front pipe, FMIC and pod filter.

I running stock computer as well.

I just got the turbo tech and installed it as instructed by the diagram on the 1st page of this thread.

However, I can't seem to set my boost to below 9psi. Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone know if this is normal or have I done something wrong?

Someone point me in the right direction!

You can only go as low as the actuator will allow, so i guess your stock boost level is 9psi, so that is as low as you can go. I have 14psi actuators so that is as low as i can set my boost.

Hi Guys,

Started reading this thread this morning, got to page 25 (not much happening at work) then skipped to the end... 4 years and 55 odd pages later I figure hey for $30 who can say no. I have 1 question though.

What is the long term reliability like? Can anybody who has had one of these fitted for a few years comment on spring tension reduction, carboning up, ball bearing rust etc etc.

I know it doesn't really matter as for $30 you could buy one every year if you wanted.... just curious. :sick:

hey guys in leu of having this boost controller i fitted up my turbosmart valve t as the instructions say for this one. Anyway i set the boost all good and its driving fine but now my factory boost guage is not working all the time. Ive also done the FMIC install as you can see in this section.

prior to the boost controller install i'd done the wire cut and ground for 7psi without the guage playing up.

Is it an issue now that i'd removed the solenoid or should i be looking somewhere else all together? where / how does the factory boost guage get its feed / signal from???

Edited by STYLN

Have bought two in past 3 weeks, 3 day turn around on both :)

Stupid me didn't tighten lock nut up fully and first one decided come apart while on boost :) surprised parts of the turbo didn't end up out exhaust, Second ones working a treat

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmm just so everyone knows there is plenty of these style pneumatic valves around... you can get ones all stainless, brass whatever you want. electronic if ya fancy.

company that springs to mind is SMC they have a stack of one way adjustable pneumatic valves. There is also another that starts with pneu*** can't remember. just thought id add something. Sure i saw one with a nice little marked adjuster on it too so you know the opening pressure, long time ago.

  • 2 weeks later...
I ordered one almost 2 weeks ago. Said he forgot to send it, fair enough, but now almost 5 working days later again, Im still waiting.

Very very poor service, now hes not replying to my emails. I ordered this 2 weeks in advance so that I could get it on my car before it went on the dyno. Its going on the dyno tomorrow though

If your not happy with there service like many arn't, including good freind of mine there is allways an alternative below, my mate bought 1 and there identical units and it works a treat in his car for months with no issues.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=320400913390

can anyone confirm whether this is the way the boost tee is assembled, i was checking mine to see if it had dirt in it and it all fell out all at once and im not 100% sure which way it goes back together, but i've gathered it goes something like this.

this is an exploded view

post-35425-1248421689_thumb.jpg

can anyone confirm whether this is the way the boost tee is assembled, i was checking mine to see if it had dirt in it and it all fell out all at once and im not 100% sure which way it goes back together, but i've gathered it goes something like this.

Looks correct to me (how else would it go)?

hey noisia, im pretty sure that is the right way. i brought one of these and took it apart accdently when i did and the ball bearing fell into the left hand side of the diagram so when we were hookin it up the boost could go as high as it wanted lol. if its wrong i recon u will find out very quickly, just keep an eye on ya boost gauge mate :rofl: n when adjusing it remember do little turns at a time, im talkin lik 1/4 of a turn

borrowed one off my mate to test so i tried it on my car set at 12psi and i found that spooling was slower then another branded bleed valve that i'm currently using. Lucky i didn't buy it... still gonna get a EBC tho.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...