Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cool? it's a pain in the a$$. My GTR has this chime, but thank f**k the previous owner 'tried' to disable it so it only works intermitently and when it does work it's muffled. the strange thing is it never used to activate when I was using my kakimoto ecu, when I put the power FC in I noticed it straight away, possibly just a coincidence though. I say get rid of it as soon as is possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73759-100-kpmh-chime/#findComment-1354200
Share on other sites

Its up under the kick where your left knee is. Smallish black box say 2-3inchs by 3-4 inches. Just unplug it, go for a drive. If its the door one, PUT IT BACK, it can play up with your central locking etc if its the door/left the lights on beep one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73759-100-kpmh-chime/#findComment-1354934
Share on other sites

Holy crap I didnt know that Cefiros had this and lately I could have sworn that I could hear the faintest chiming noise in the car. I have no stereo yet so I wont be able to here mine once thats in :D

Thanks for pointing out that they have these.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73759-100-kpmh-chime/#findComment-1354953
Share on other sites

yer that thing drives me insane.. i also changed ecu's and it went away but guess what... its back! smallish black box you say?... that little f%#k is dead tomorrow!

There is about 3 of them tho. So just unplug them one by one first. From memory it was the far left one. But I took mine out well over a year ago, so I really cant remember.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73759-100-kpmh-chime/#findComment-1355211
Share on other sites

My gawd I thought it was something wrong with my speedo or something. I had a suspicion that it was a speed warning as it always comes on at the same speed - a ticking sound - but it seems inconsistent - seems to have stopped now.

Kills you when driving long distance in 110k zones - just have to turn up the stereo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73759-100-kpmh-chime/#findComment-1355367
Share on other sites

Yeah its the furthest to the left. Just stick your head under there and you can see it. Really simple to remove. Removed mine 2 weeks ago.

You guys are lucky. On the 32's its located directly behind the instrument cluster. You have to dismantle the dash to get to it so you can snip the wire.

When your looking for the cef one, if you remove the door/light chime you will this will affect your alarm/central locking (if you got it) the only way to over come this is to wire them into each other so you still have a closed circuit. But this will eliminate your warnings by doing this.

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73759-100-kpmh-chime/#findComment-1357725
Share on other sites

My gawd I thought it was something wrong with my speedo or something. I had a suspicion that it was a speed warning as it always comes on at the same speed - a ticking sound - but it seems inconsistent - seems to have stopped now.

Kills you when driving long distance in 110k zones - just have to turn up the stereo.

LoL. Dude TRUST me it is still there. Easy way to tell, when you go to sleep, do you hear this DING, DING, DING and see 110kmh on a circle when your dreaming?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73759-100-kpmh-chime/#findComment-1357754
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
×
×
  • Create New...