Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...
Hi all

Recently have a problem with the car

When the car is idle, it would sometimes shudder/shake for about 1/2 second

This can occur randomly at idle and makes no sounds

Any suggestions at what it could be ?

Thanks

Eric

Got the same problem with my 34 GTT. It only seem to show when car is warmed up. When the oil temperture pass 90 degree and sitting idle the random shake and you can hear spluttering sound from the exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73847-shudder-at-idle/#findComment-1649392
Share on other sites

have had this shutter too for about 2.5years

only appears when the engine is warm, and is worse when the engine is hot

...but doesn't seem to be so bad when its a cold day

tried to change:

- afm

- spark plugs

- all coils

- ignitor

- fuel filter

- tried fiddling with wires to see if its an electrical problem - no luck

- had injectors cleaned about a year and a half ago

also tried cleaning IAC, fiddling with throttle switch, and cleaning the intake manifold with some carby cleaner all with no luck

if you find what it is, then i will have sex with a monkey

Waz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73847-shudder-at-idle/#findComment-1653257
Share on other sites

have had this shutter too for about 2.5years

only appears when the engine is warm, and is worse when the engine is hot

...but doesn't seem to be so bad when its a cold day

tried to change:

- spark plugs

- all coils

Waz.

hmm. bugger. so changing the coil didn't fix the problem. I was seriously thinking of picking up a 6 pack splitfire coil n replace them all and hoping for problem solved. But I guess I will have to look else where.

Anyone else got the same problem and had it sort it out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73847-shudder-at-idle/#findComment-1662449
Share on other sites

Mine has started doing it in the last week or two... Just a quick shudder and a gurgle from the stock exhaust system. Only when warm.

Interesting! I thought I was due for new spark plugs, cause it sounds like an occasional miss.

Do 34's have the ignitor in the ECU or engine bay?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73847-shudder-at-idle/#findComment-1666968
Share on other sites

Hmm.. and it is the same on my series 2 R33.. Wondering if it is getting too hot where it is and not igniting properly sometimes? Anyone with a series 1 R33 experiencing the idle shudder?

Also, Ed... does that free ipod thing actually work? I've seen the same scheme for car head units. =-]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73847-shudder-at-idle/#findComment-1669617
Share on other sites

Hmm.. and it is the same on my series 2 R33.. Wondering if it is getting too hot where it is and not igniting properly sometimes? Anyone with a series 1 R33 experiencing the idle shudder?

Also, Ed... does that free ipod thing actually work? I've seen the same scheme for car head units. =-]

I have an R33 S1 and it's also affecting me. It only used to happen a poofteenth before I got my atmo BOV and now it does it pretty hardcore. Unless I leave it for 4 hours between drives. If I warm up the car for 5 mins in the morning I'm fine. It's when I stop and start the car (like doing grocery shopping or something) that it happens most

has anyone used the the eletronic idle stabiliser?

Clicky

Does it work?

Someone mentioned that another result of shutter is also loss fuel economy... Will this also fix that ? I

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73847-shudder-at-idle/#findComment-1670156
Share on other sites

I was going to have a guess and say; since my O2 sensor doesn't appear to be working properly, and the ECU is running richer at idle/low revs, that possibly it is backfiring on too much fuel?

I hope this is not just an uneducated guess, and i'll soon see when my NGK O2 sensor arrives.

Incidentally, i'm also running an aftermarket BOV. How's your fuel economy, Kennedy?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73847-shudder-at-idle/#findComment-1670302
Share on other sites

I was going to have a guess and say; since my O2 sensor doesn't appear to be working properly, and the ECU is running richer at idle/low revs, that possibly it is backfiring on too much fuel?

I hope this is not just an uneducated guess, and i'll soon see when my NGK O2 sensor arrives.

Incidentally, i'm also running an aftermarket BOV. How's your fuel economy, Kennedy?

Well my fuel gauge doesn't work so I can't be sure. (Gotta fix that). I fill up every 200KM anyway coz I believe cars in general run more efficiently on a full tank. By my rough calculations...since the BOV intall by I can only get about 400KM rather than 450KM to a tank. It is a 65L tank isn't it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73847-shudder-at-idle/#findComment-1670436
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...