Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its time to change my plugs, and currently i've got a set of NGK BCP6ES-11 in there i think gapped to 0.8 with no probs. Now went to Repco for another set and there told me to get the PFR5G-11 which there don't stock the BCP. On the NGK website the PFR5G-11 are also rocommended. Are these two plugs equivalent to each other? I know one is resistor type and one is not, which ones better?

So anyone used this plugs before and wat are ur opinions?

thanks :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73880-spark-plug-issues/
Share on other sites

i just picked up some BCP6ES's from supercheap too.. seemed repco only stocked the iridium/platium variants, and didnt want to order the copper ones for me..

was even more fun for finding plugs for my mates wrx... repco didnt want to know about it, ended up finding some "bosch super 4" plugs from supercheap... look decent (they have 4 prongs i guess.. what ever the bit that bends over the top of the tip is anyway :rofl: ), but havent installed them yet, so no word on performance

I went into Repco on the weekend and they recommended NGK BKR6E which are gapped to 0.8mm.

I dunno if they are any good as they are not installed yet, but i hope they fix my misfire...ever since the SAUWA cruise my 'line misfires at anything over 3500rpm...even after turning down the boost :P

If you skyline is misfire over 3500rpm, do a search on the topic of misfire.

seems it is often the case that the coil packs start sparkin were they shouldnt be.

If you rip out the coil packs you should see a light powdery residue just above the rubber cups which is caused by the smallest of cracks. Just tape it up with insulation tape.

as for spark plugs, mine came with iridium NGK bcpr5IX-11

And the reason being to resist :talk2hand the resistor? lol

Oh yea found the BCP6ES-11 at $uper Cheap.

ta

It has actually been known for Supercheap to stock car parts.

They are cheap there. Don't muck about with people telling you to use other wise the NGK BCP6ES-11 for the RB25 are the go and cheap as well.

It has actually been known for Supercheap to stock car parts.

They are cheap there. Don't muck about with people telling you to use other wise the NGK BCP6ES-11 for the RB25 are the go and cheap as well.

Ilija! Long time no post buddy!

P.S. The NGK BCP6ES (without the -11) come pre gapped at 0.8 :D

thanx for the replies guys. looks like i'm gonna stick to the BCP6ES and still b gapping it to 0.8

ta  :stupid:

at 0.8 you will loose power but keep the spark going....top revs will feel a bit flat

With biger gap you will burn better but sparkies won't last as long.....

So if you have a bit of money get iridium ones and go for 11

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...