Jump to content
SAU Community

GTECH PRO SS or GTECH PRO RR???

shark33

By shark33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
remembder guys they are inaccurate upto .4 of a second at worst, .2-.3 on average  :P

What a load of hot c0ck!! have you got one??? we proved that set-up right they are accurate within 0.02 and 0.1 MPH. Dont believe me then ask 2rismo and Bu5ter as i proved it to them at Compak Attak.

by the way...we use a pro RR as we like the data logging functions it has.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

i used the data logging one a few weeks ago, seemed quite accurate, only did 0-100 though since we were on public roads.

also the rev counter function is not quite correct, it sensed 7000rpm when we were really at around 6000rpm, so started flashing all its shift lights too early, but who cares about that function anyway...

also tried an older one with the small red display (its in my glovebox atm) and even if calibrated correctly sometimes it comes up with whacky figures which are way off ie more than a second or two!

maybe i should try them both at the same time..

  • 4 weeks later...
Ruffels Veteran

Ruffels

Posted
Posted

dont these devices rely on you knowing the exact laiden weight of the vihicle, if this is so then you would need some sort of weight station to get an accurate figure rather then guessing, aswell as that the cars wieght is also changed +/- 50kg due to petrol

just my thoughts on posible inacuracies

-Ruffels

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

I have the original red LED display model and for 400m testing weight is not needed to be entered as it measures G force to calculate your time.

Entering weight was only needed if you wanted it to calculate horsepower.

With the original model I had the hardest thing was to get it to sit correctly which would give inconsistent times if not 100% level on the windscreen.

I read a review in Zoom I think and they mentioned this problem had been eliminated and accuracy was pretty good too with the latest models.

And if people want to weigh there cars I have never been charged on a weigh bridge as I dont want a printout.

I just drive on, look at the weight,and drive off.

Angry Proficient

Angry

Posted
Posted

buy an rsm sharky ..it does 1/4s(if u buy gsensor) .. rpm ..speed.. voltage and for 270bucks ..i seen cheaper this week on ns.com for like 240 ..... much better unit i reckon for hte money.....the gtech stuff is pretty expensive and pretty vague in terms of results.

and then when your sorted buy a motorbike helmet and hit the strip..

Matt

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Hi guys wanting to know if you could help me?

I Want to buy a GTEC PRO for my R32 GTS-t but idont know which one would fit?

the GTEC PRO SS or GTEC PRO RR and whats the difference?????

Please help.

Cheers  

Daniel

Daniel,

I have a RR model GTech. I would strongly recommend this model over the SS. It will do all that the SS can do plus will handle data logging on the circuit.

The RR will record two hours worth of data at a logging rate of 20Hz which includes rpm, lateral & longitudinal gees & can then be downloaded to your PC. So it is a great data logger for a track day.

Also the RR will record quarter mile times, 0 - 100, acceleration & braking gees for when you want to practice launches, check the efficacy of engine mods or even measure your braking efforts.

I can't recommend these things highly enough.

Have a look at my photos thing on the left for some screen dumps of some laps around Wanneroo short circuit. (Gtech is on the windscreen) Unfortunately the installation wasn't quite right & the data is upside down (ie left is really right & braking is really acceleration). But you can see how the thing works.

You can overlay your laptimes & if you lend you Gtech to your mates you can compare the cars various strengths & weaknesses.

I got mine on Ebay & paid < $500.

Go get one, they are unreal.

:uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...