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Hey guys,

I'm still waiting for my R32 GTR to turn up, and I'm trying to get as much organised as I can before it gets here.

Its pretty well standard except for (as far as I know): exhaust(unsure if cat-back or full), twin airpods and boost controller.

I'm interested in getting a bit more out of her, and I've come to the conclusion that the turbos are what will hold me back.

What are the specs of the turbos? Are they ceramic on exhaust side or both or what? Is it worth getting them rebuilt or highflowed?

Or should I just leave them and get a PowerFC and finish the exhaust(if it needs it).

I realise these questions may have been asked before, but I'm a newbie so I have an excuse(and I did have a bit of a look before posting)

Thanks

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Mate do another search there's HEAPS of info around pertaining to what you're after.

Quickly though, yes turbos are ceramic turbine.

Don't bother hi-flowing ... buy some N1 turbos, HKS 2530s or something similar.

To start with perhaps just do the PowerFC and zawst and see how she goes.

Finish exhaust if req

R32 can be "chipped" unless you have deep pockets get a FULL service done (can be $$$$) and hold back on major UPGRADES untill u know the car is fine. things like tyres brakes clutch might need to be looked at before turbos.

Guys

this is a simple matter of 'you get what you pay for'

If you expect to pick up an R32 GTR for next to nothing (READ : sub $30K) - expect to have problems. I agree that not many people would want to talk about killing their engine within days/weeks/months of buying the car – but I suppose it does happen. This may be due to the different fuel we run here in Aus.

GET YOUR MIXTURES CHECKED BEFORE INTRODUCING LEAD FOOT TO PEDDLE !!!

I got my R32 about 12 months ago for like $20K and have spent the last year rebuilding it (almost $15K already).

BUT

that's what I excepted to do. Now I have a SOLID street legal road weapon, that I know will take what ever I throw at her. This is not the cheapest way to get a fully rebuilt car, but it's the ONLY way you can GARENTEE what's gone into the rebuild. I know I will never get ALL my money back – but's that's OK too. I'll keep the car until I'm over it, and then pass it on to some lucky git that will get all my work for a 'steel' (I've done t before unfortunately)

this is only my humble opinion – but I've been around a while.

:( My 32 was a direct import from Japan. cost me 26g and was rated at a 4.5 on the scale!

Blew a bigend after a full service and WAS NOT driven hard while here. The engine builder told me that the reason the engine let go was SLUDGE in the bottom of the sump. caused by lack of service in JAPAN, he also went on to say that the number of 33's and high priced 34's with the same problem was growing to about 3 enquiries a week!!

It dosent mean SH!T how much you pay for your car if it hasnt been looked after in JAPAN (service wise) you dont know

Oh yes i had a RACQ inspection performed and it was imported through a well known and respected importer!! :(

first thing I did when my GTR arrived was have it THOROUGHLY inspected by a mechanic. I'm talking the whole engine inspected, compression/leak tested, injectors removed and flowed, timing belt replaced, all engine fluids replaced, radiator removed and cleaned, air filters replaced, plugs replaced, anything that was not like new was replaced. I then drove it on a paltry .7bar boost until the PowerFC was installed and tuned. haven't had a problem since. Once you've done all that then look at what you want out of it with regards to turbos etc.

Guys

this is a simple matter of 'you get what you pay for'

If you expect to pick up an R32 GTR for next to nothing (READ : sub $30K) - expect to have problems.  I agree that not many people would want to talk about killing their engine within days/weeks/months of buying the car – but I suppose it does happen. This may be due to the different fuel we run here in Aus.  

GET YOUR MIXTURES CHECKED BEFORE INTRODUCING LEAD FOOT TO PEDDLE !!!

I got my R32 about 12 months ago for like $20K and have spent the last year rebuilding it (almost $15K already).  

BUT

that's what I excepted to do. Now I have a SOLID street legal road weapon, that I know will take what ever I throw at her. This is not the cheapest way to get a fully rebuilt car, but it's the ONLY way you can GARENTEE what's gone into the rebuild. I know I will never get ALL my money back – but's that's OK too. I'll keep the car until I'm over it, and then pass it on to some lucky git that will get all my work for a 'steel' (I've done t before unfortunately)

this is only my humble opinion – but I've been around a while.

lol sucks ey

because of bad fuel my car

bought for 26K last year

i've blown the motor twice

now spent around 25K on the car itself.

so the car ate 50K of my money the bastard :(

:)  My 32 was a direct import from Japan. cost me 26g and was rated at a 4.5 on the scale!

Blew a bigend after a full service and WAS NOT driven hard while here. The engine builder told me that the reason the engine let go was SLUDGE in the bottom of the sump. caused by lack of service in JAPAN, he also went on to say that the number of 33's and high priced 34's with the same problem was growing to about 3 enquiries a week!!

It dosent mean SH!T how much you pay for your car if it hasnt been looked after in JAPAN (service wise) you dont know

Oh yes i had a RACQ inspection performed and it was imported through a well known and respected importer!! :D

thus I resigned myself to buying a broken one in the first place :)

Get what you pay for is biggest cop out ever. Obviously its true to an extent, but there IS such a thing as a bargain and DEFINATLY such a thing as being ripped off.

If I put $40K on the for sale sign on my skyline, does that make it worth this much?

After that rant... :D

They are old, so regardless WHAT you pay or how many kms they SAY it has... you gotta be prepared. I was.. I even said to all my mates I would be replacing turbos and clutch for sure....

sure enough two blown turbos are on my car. (now just waiting for clutch or something else)

Agree with all that has been said about saving to fix it up. Even after you fix it, its still a bargain of a car, but just make sure you remember to save ready to fix it, don't mod it until you fix it.

On the positive side, mine lasted a year before i killed the turbos due to 18psi replaced them with n1's and have no had a problem yet, but heed these peoples advice look after it and dont go spending to much untill yuo have it sused.

Thumb of rule i think is if its done around 150,00kms big end is gonna go if it hasnt already.

Argghh yes if only I could have half the money back i've spent on cars over the years I'd be a rich man!

As for the spending money on GTRs debate..well they are no more unreliable than any other 12-15year old car...the thing that tends to make people focus on them so much is:

1. The type of owners (Like ourselfs) that they are attracting now, and what we want from them.

2. When something does break, parts are generally a more expensive, plus they have all the bells and whistles such as 4WD, 4WS, ABS, Twin Turbos etc etc which makes them difficult and expensive to work on.

As to the original question on Turbo options, heres one for you, you can have your existing Turbos rebuilt with Machined housing, steel T28 Wheels and steel shaft for around $1200ea mark (Taking them off yourself)

I'm considering this option ATM, as have had great sucess in the past with this arrangement.

don't be scared by all the engine failure horror stories. I've had mine for year and a half now and it is still going strong. just about to upgrade to 2530's.

just give it a good service (something you CAN do yourself) and listen to the sounds it makes and watch your gauges..... oh, and don't run 18 psi on the stock turbos (eh stirlo :D )

I think the point is DON'T think about changing / upgrading ANYTHING until you have it here and KNOW what condition it's, and it will take a while to figure that out. You'll have enough to spend your money on once you start to replace all the fluids, oils and filters (don't forget the fuel filter). Not to mention dyno runs, ECU retunes, and pressure leaks etc etc.

My motor or turbos never actually failed – the RB26 is a strong motor – and it held together for me. But I was not willing to spend anything on performance improvements until I had a reasonable base to work from. Once we stripped it down – It needed head work to repair damage from detonation, pots 4 and 6 where gone (bore and hone) and the list goes on. My point here is that the motor didn't die . It was running fine and delivering a good 210awkw with the restrictor removed. But it would not have lasted long if I had just bolted up a pair of bigger turbos and threw on a nice big exhaust.

If you buy stuff up front - you'll end up paying WAY more than you budget for in the end.

I agree with PSI_GTSII - they are now an old car - the RB26 was designed in the mid 80s - and it shows (compare it to a modern Sti or EVO). It's still a very good package, and will deliver what you ask - but only if it's in good shape to do so.

Don't get me wrong – I LOVE my GTR, it's one of the best cars I owed - and I've been lucky enough to owned a few (WRX/Sti/HSV for example). Can you tell I'm not 22 years old :D

be prepared - any R32 you buy will go BANG some time soon – unless it's been rebuilt (no rocket science required). This is not the kind of car only driven to church on Sundays – if you know what I mean.

HARD DRIVING + NEGLECT = BANG !!!

As they say - buying a GTR is easy - keeping one - that's the expensive part.

This is all only one mans opinion – but I'd like to pass on the wisdom acquired from my years. That's what this forum is all about – yes ?

You choose to listen (and agree) or not.

Thanks for all your advice guys.

I had of course planned/budgeted for a full service including changing all fluids and filters etc before I do anything else. What else should I get checked out or replaced if I want it to be (reasonably) reliable when I "enhance" it a bit after?

Thanks

I guess you could look at it this way.

You dont go about buying a $100000+ (cost of new) car, even after 10+ years, and expect it to be cheap to fix when things go wrong. And things, the majority of the time, WILL GO WRONG. There are so many variables involved when youre looking at reliability of a 10yr+ old race bred performance car. You truely can't expect to buy something that wont fail. No matter what anyone says. Only safe way is to assume your buying a dud and get it fully serviced and inspected. After all, Japan isn't Australia.

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