Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just thought I'd add a post, My 32 runs like a dream, I've had it almost 3 years now and its hardly skipped a beat.

Fuel ecconomy is pretty bad, backfires a fair bit, boosts hard, 171.9 at the wheels.

Standard ecu, Dump pipe, full 3 in zoorst, Hi flow cat, Hks pod, 14psi boost :D

Bosch 044 or 040 fuel pump, (cant remember)

And probably some other things.

See there is brigh light at the end of the tunnel, And my 32 is my daily driver and i give it hell everyday and it asks for more :lol:

Pease

Greg

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys,

Just thought I'd add a post, My 32 runs like a dream, I've had it almost 3 years now and its hardly skipped a beat.

Fuel ecconomy is pretty bad, backfires a fair bit, boosts hard, 171.9 at the wheels.

Standard ecu, Dump pipe, full 3 in zoorst, Hi flow cat, Hks pod, 14psi boost  :D

Bosch 044 or 040 fuel pump, (cant remember)

And probably some other things.

See there is brigh light at the end of the tunnel, And my 32 is my daily driver and i give it hell everyday and it asks for more  :lol:

Pease

Greg

mate?? what is your point....?? did you have this problem or are you just posting for the heck of it? :D

Guys, I got my car back today after having the same problem fixed. First I got a brand new fuel pump, which was the main suspect. The car was better but it didn't fix the problem. Then they changed the afm but still no cigar. After a few days of figuring out the problem, they fixed/changed the crank angle sensor (got nfi what it is/does) and now it's perfectly fine. Almost...

It used to stall every single time I stopped but now it doesn't do it unless the lights are on. ARGHHH. Which leads me to believe either

a) Need new battery. (getting one on Monday)

or

B) it's an electrical problem. I'm gonna take it to an auto electrician on Monday if the new battery doesn't work. I'll keep you guys informed.

So to sum it up, if you've checked the fuel pump and AFM and it's still f**ked, try the CAS.

hi there,  i am having the same problem, and am also trying to diagnose it.

Ok, from time to time, just driving normally,  it'll  "hesitate" and u litterally loose all power for a split second, then it comes back on.      It does this from time to time

when it's bad.  it'll do it alot.  (like  on-off-on-off  bucking you describe).  and eventually u usually have to pull over.

When i pull over.  revs will idle funny  -  like  1k - 2k - 1k - 2k - 1k - 2k  back and forth for a while, and will then either settle down, or the car will stall.    Although idle is jumping between 1 and 2k, it's still smooth, when you're standing still,  it's not eratic.  (does it do this on your car?)

Because it's idling like this, i'm wondering if it might be a Idle-control valve problem, or coolant temp sensor.    The other thing i'm getting is an unusually high cold-idle in the morning - this could be unrelated however.  I haven't checked for ECU fault codes, but i'll do this tomorrow morning.

I've tried removing the bov and blocking intake off with a plate, and blocking vac-line off,  but makes no difference.

-Tim

I had high idle issues a while back, cause of mine was the rear fuel pressure regulator vacum hose had come of. Replaced the hose and problem fixed

Cutting/hesitation - I'd be looking at fuel pump/fuel supply, which the above might also apply

Chris

Fixed mine completely yesterday. :rolleyes: The electrical problem that made my car only stall when the lights were on was the master earth. It had somehow come off and just needed to be screwed onto a different place. After all that trouble, I have finally gotten rid of this problem.

  • 5 months later...
could be idle air control

My g/f's r32 had the 1000rpm - 2000rpm idle hunt going on for awhile. I pulled the AFM off and cleaned it. That didn't fix the problem.

Finally we took it to a mechanic, within minutes he diagnosed the IACV as the problem.. Pulled it off and reco'd it, then popped it back on. Immediately the hunt was gone, BUT the car was still idling at 1000rpm....

Turns out the other idle solenoid (not sure what it's called, the one that is partly hidden by the intake manifold) was broken. Once replaced with a new part everything was good again.

So if anyone else out there is having the same issue and finds this thread like I did, check you IACV as well as the AFM.

Dude i had the rpm hunting issue. where it went from 1k to 2k to 1k to 2k etc

i changed everything to try and fix it but in the end it was the

COLD START SOLENOID!

located just under the intake plume cross over pipe(between the intake and the rocker cover, on the left as u look at the engine bay from the front) you have to get a torch and look down there. its a square thing with pipes going in one side and out the other.

messin around with the tps dont do jak

If any bodys got questions id be happy to tell u what i found

cheers

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys

gts4-t 94...... had the same problem. She would hunt and then jerk forward and the loss power! i had the spark plugs replaced and gapped and the air flow meter! its most probably the AFM.... my car would stale sometimes at the lights or low revs... send it to the mechanic no problems! couldn't make it do it! eventually the mechanic change 3 things

1. spark plugs

2. AFM

3. ECU

It was the AFM and spark plugs! you should be able to get a afm off a 300zx should do the trick!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...