Jump to content
SAU Community

Tomei Poncams, interesting instructions regarding BOV

Bass Junky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hey ppls.

My 260 degree Poncams are going in early next week, and I had a quick look at the instructions, although they are in Japanese, I can quite clearly understand that they instruct me to block up the hole in the BOV.

Remember the mod where you drill a screw into the BOV face which "pre pressurises" the chamber to give quicker response or something?

Well, the instructions in the package definently tell me to do that mod.

I had already done it previously, and then removed it because the car was a bit jerky with it.

So, my question is, why when installing a set of cams, would the manufacturer instruct me to perform this mod.......???

Anyone?

BASS OUT

jnr32r Proficient

jnr32r

Posted
Posted

i saw the same thing on the manual... kinda weird.

mine will be going in next w.end, qik qustion tho, do ur cams look black finish around the lobes?

just found it strange how the OEM cams are machined to a shiny finish both around the lobes and around the brackets, but the Poncams are only machined to that finish around the brackets.????

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
i saw the same thing on the manual... kinda weird.

mine will be going in next w.end, qik qustion tho, do ur cams look black finish around the lobes?

just found it strange how the OEM cams are machined to a shiny finish both around the lobes and around the brackets, but the Poncams are only machined to that finish around the brackets.????

It is applied lubricant retention, they will go "shiny" when run:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...