Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

got 231awkw @ 1.1 bar with PowerFC on the dyno yesterday. Happy with the results but not happy that the laptop (datalogit) and ITC shows KNOCK value = 1. Tuner said that the knock sensor might be disconnected and the reading will be a constant "1" regardless whether the engine's pinging or not. He had to use a oscillascope (sp) to listen in for any pinging/knocking during the tuning and 231kw was supposely a safe tune for me :cheers:

i have been reading through the rb26 user manual and tried locating the knock sensor but to no avail. Any of you guys know where the sensor is located?

thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75139-rb26dett-knock-sensor/
Share on other sites

i have been reading through the rb26 user manual and tried locating the knock sensor but to no avail.  Any of you guys know where the sensor is located?

thanks in advance.

There are actually 2 knock sensors on the RB26.

Both are located on the inlet side, under the intake manifold. (approx 3/4 way up the block)

1 is in line with Cyl 2, the other is in line with cyl 5.

They're round & black in colour with a 10mm bolt throgh the centre.

Plug is also black, 2 wire. Projects from the circular sensor @ approx 45deg.

Hope that helps.

There are actually 2 knock sensors on the RB26.

Both are located on the inlet side, under the intake manifold. (approx 3/4 way up the block)

1 is in line with Cyl 2, the other is in line with cyl 5.

They're round & black in colour with a 10mm bolt throgh the centre.

Plug is also black, 2 wire. Projects from the circular sensor @ approx 45deg.

Hope that helps.

thanks Adrian. i did try running my hands down the manifold to try feel for it but nothing. I guess i will jack the car up to have a better look from undernealth. It's irritates me to look at the ITC and have the knock value at "1".

Sorry i know its off topic but who tuned your car and what mods do u have.

car is being mod for the occasional trackwork. For the engine department, i have got ARC intercooler with pipings, Trust oil cooler, Trust sump, JUN adj exh/int cam gears, new belts, oil/water pump catch can, crank, twin air pods, avcr and power fc. Induction side, i have R34 GTR turbos pushing a safe 1.1 bar with full turbo-back exhaust system.

Chapmans & Chapmans at Wollongabba did all the engine work/mods for me and Mercury Motorsports did the tuning because they have the datalogit software and also one of SAU_QLD sponsors. Would have preferred Chapmans to do the tune because i have seen some very positive examples of Andrew's work.

thanks Adrian.  i did try running my hands down the manifold to try feel for it but nothing.  I guess i will jack the car up to have a better look from undernealth. It's irritates me to look at the ITC and have the knock value at "1".

Glenn,

Look on the block, just forward of the water~oil heat exchanger where the oil filter mounts, above the front diff... Almost directly above the engine mount bracket, high on the block, hard up against it you should see the sensor (the forward one)

If it's not present, you'll see a raise circular boss where it should be. (With a central thread for the retaining/attaching bolt.

You will probably need a mirror & a torch...

Cheers

Adrian

I had a knock sensor problem as well, seemed a former owner had not liked the reading it gave. So right at the computer they wired the ECU knock sensor input to a constant 0v...so it always read 0.

Anyway, check that first, find the ECU pinouts, follow that wire and make sure it hasnt been fiddled with :rofl:

I couldn't agree more, I hooked it all back up.

My theory is there may have been an "overactive" knock sensor that was sending the ECU into safe mode...and it was easier to cut a wire than to replace the sensors.

After all the knock sensor is just a little microphone

many thanks to Adrian and Duncan.

Spent some time tracing and testing the wires and found out that the connector was dirty. Gave it a good cleaning and woops, my knock sensor is back online :(

went out for a drive and highest knock value registered was '32'. Did some research in here and it seems that anything less than 40 is fine. Will probably give it a good hard drive soon to see if the value goes up any higher.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe the knock sensors do nothing but give a number when connected to a PowerFC.. as unlike the stock ECU the PowerFC does not remove timing etc if it sees knock..

It says this in the manual, also I think says anything under 60 is normally safe. :P

  • 1 month later...

Yeah i am having the same problem. Had the car on the dyno and my tuner said that the knock sensor isnt giving a reading (i also have a PFC and want the numerical reading for further tuning).

I will try and give it a clean out, i thought i needed new ones!

I priced new items from nissan and they quoted $300 each!! I found a wrecker with a half cut who will sell them for $95 each which isnt to bad.

Does anyone know if these sensors usually fail??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...