Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These aren't the biggest turbo in terms of HP. I think they are rated at 320ps.

The advantage is they are ball bearing which means the RB25 will spool this very early.

With supporting mods you could probably pump out around 220rwkw. Though if you're going to the trouble of replacing the turbo you'll be asking yourself why you didn't pay the extra $500 and get something a little bigger.

Expect to pay upwards of $1200 ~ for a good condition example. Check to make sure if it comes with oil / water lines as this will set you back $100 or so plus intake modifications.

You don't need two threads to ask the same question.

If it's a turbo question then it's pretty obviously going to go in the Forced Induction section.

Also there is a shitload of info on here about this turbo and how it goes on an RB25. It's an old turbo.

A 2535 would be better suited to an RB25 but don't underestimate what a street weapon a 2530 RB25 will be. The first question that should be asked when upgrading turbo is what do you want to do with the car?

A 2540 is not often recommended.

Check out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55845

and do some more reading.

Oh, and have fun. ;)

Like everyone has stated, ask yourself what you're after in your car. If you're after big horsepower, don't go this turbo. I have a 2535 on mine and in my opinion, it's heaven on a stick. An RB25 with a 25XX turbo is going to give you a very quick response, with good power but don't expect to see the rwkw mark exceed much more than 250rwkw with a 25 series turbo. A 2530 would be lucky to even get there with 220rwkw about it's theoretical max. I currently make 220rwkw on just 12psi with my 2535, which is rated just a bit higher than the 2530.

For $1200, you can't go wrong if all you are chasing is around 200-220rwkw and a very responsive street car. As others have said, don't underestimate this turbo as it will certainly give your car a kick in the arse that will have you smiling every time ;) Best of luck mate.

With supporting mods the 450hp GCG rebuild wud go close, maybe 250-260rwkw is more likely though. Mind you its still damn responsive which is awsome, when you go past 250rwkw you tend to get abit more lag and that isnt the best on a street car.

Gotta say 16psi at 3,000rpm is pretty damn cool!! And if ur makin near on 300rwhp, well most would be pretty happy with that too.

if your chasing say 270rwkws what turbo is suitable. Ive read all the related threads posted by other members but got lost in the information. For examples sake, would a GCG turbo be capable?

seach button, and half the stickie threads in this section will answer that question for yous

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...