Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Currently I have 17inch rims with 235/45/r17 tyres (Nankang, hehe) and need to replace them as the tyres are causing steering wheel vibration at speeds over 110km.

I have come up with 2 options, which is 'better'

option 1

Buy 4 235/45/r17 quality tyres such as Dunlop SP3000, Michelin Preceda or possiblay SO3s

option 2

Get 18 rims 8.5" at the front and 9.5" at the rear with Hankook Venus Sport "K104" rubber. 235/40/18 front and 265/35/18 rear.

These rims will make the car look better too

Which option will give me better performance???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75381-tyre-quality-vs-size/
Share on other sites

check out the maxxis victra in 235 /17 sold by bob jane. came out very well in the recent motor (wheels?) tyre test that included ost of the big name brands and tyre types, and half the price of most of them. 4th overall and there was nothing in the diferences really ie .06 sec through the slalom etc

check out the maxxis victra in 235 /17 sold by bob jane. came out very well in the recent motor (wheels?) tyre test that included ost of the big name brands and tyre types, and half the price of most of them. 4th overall and there was nothing in the diferences really ie .06 sec through the slalom etc

And thats not a lot???

For my 10 cents worth you are much better off spending your hard earned on a better set of tyres rather than set of larger tyres. The most marked difference will be in the amount of wet weather grip the tyres have - ie grip when you need it most.

By and large there are cheap tyres & there are good tyres.

If you want a set of 18 inch rims for looks then that is a completely different argument. Remember though, that for an equal quality rim a 17 inch set up will be lighter than an 18 inch. If you end up with a cheap 18 inch rim then it will be much heavier - to the detriment of your ride & handling.

And thats not a lot???

ummm...under the circumstances no, i don't think it is. we're talking six hundredths of a second slower, such a small amount of time that on any other given day it might have been six hundredths faster. i think that's bugger all. sure if you're trying to shave tenths each lap it's considerable but we're talking a $200 street tyre here. if you can justify spending twice the amount for a street tyre that's .06 sec quicker then either $ don't matter, you are always able to drive at warp speed or you need to drop your card to ferrari. the victra beat most of the better known brands in a lot of areas and all of them in others such as wet braking, which i'd have to say is pretty important in terms of keeping my car and hard stuff away from each other on the street where there are no run offs.

for some reason the noise test, in which the victra did very well, wasn't included in the points score. if you saw how close the overall results were you can't help but wonder why the noise result was left out of the points score.

i simply reckon they're worth a try on the basis of the test results.

cheers

ummm...under the circumstances no, i don't think it is. we're talking six hundredths of a second slower, such a small amount of time that on any other given day it might have been six hundredths faster. i think that's bugger all. sure if you're trying to shave tenths each lap it's considerable but we're talking a $200 street tyre here. if you can justify spending twice the amount for a street tyre that's .06 sec quicker then either $ don't matter, you are always able to drive at warp speed or you need to drop your card to ferrari. the victra beat most of the better known brands in a lot of areas and all of them in others such as wet braking, which i'd have to say is pretty important in terms of keeping my car and hard stuff away from each other on the street where there are no run offs.  

for some reason the noise test, in which the victra did very well, wasn't included in the points score. if you saw how close the overall results were you can't help but wonder why the noise result was left out of the points score.    

i simply reckon they're worth a try on the basis of the test results.  

cheers

:werd:

I read that test and it looks like that tyre gives by far the best bang for buck performance out of the group.

would be good if someone who had them could report on just how long they last as i think they could be quite a soft compound?

:werd:  

I read that test and it looks like that tyre gives by far the best bang for buck performance out of the group.

would be good if someone who had them could report on just how long they last as i think they could be quite a soft compound?

Hi Interloper;

my thoughts exactly, not sure about the wear but I've had Yokos go hard after about 60% wear so who knows. but at about $200 per tyre it's a chance i'm prepared to take.

Regards

Hi Interloper;

my thoughts exactly, not sure about the wear but I've had Yokos go hard after about 60% wear so who knows. but at about $200 per tyre it's a chance i'm prepared to take.

Regards

i will be after some in the near future, so let us know what your thoughts are if you end up buying them.

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...