Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I see there is heaps of threads on it. But what I am looking for is spark pugs for an R33 RB25DET.

I don't really want to spend $17 a spark plug though.

Could I get 25k-30k out of the cheap ones (about $4 each)

I just see there is a bit of plumbing over the top of the engine and the the coils have to come out etc. It's a reasonable job.

Is there any that will give approx 50k or more for around the $10 each mark. I read somewhere that the mid range price ones aren't great i.e. some poeople werehaveing truble with iridiums.

Also gap them down to 0.8mm? I guess if platinum you shouldnt change the gap..

Thanks

You are right, there are heaps of threads on this topic, even for the RB25DET.

One simple rule to remember, the less you pay then shorter time between changing plugs again. Dont expect 25-30000 kms out of $4 coppers. I suggest get the coppers and do the job yourself, its pretty easy with the right tools and change them every 10 - 15000 kms. If u find this task too hard then pay someone to do it and get the platinums or iridiums put in. They will last longer but are more expensive.

Final thought:

U say you dont want to spend $17 on a plug (total of $102) that will last you 50,000kms.

This works out to be .204 cents a kilometer compared to coppers at .24 cents a kilometer.

Money should not be an issue here and i would never put sub standard parts on my R33 just to save a few bucks

Here are a few links. You should be able to make up your own mind after reading them.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...k+plugs+rb25det

Ive studied plugs a bit, and copper ones wear a little as when copper sparks it burns part of the metal on the plug. Its ok if you want to change them regularly. Iridiums are great but you generally find you have to gap them down, ive gapped mine at 0.8mm.

To gap them it only takes about 2mins anyway right. Just put the feeler gauge in and bang them a little on a metal table etc. THat's how I ususallly gap them anyway.

Surely coopers could last say 25-30k? I heard that even platinums you may not get the 100k kms as the plugs may foul quite a bit.

Iridiums the way to go??

You can't gap platinums can you>

Thanks

Coppers cant last 25-30k's, they wear away!!!

Iridiums are a better conductor of spark than platnums

Copper's give a better spark initially then start to wear. Within a couple of thousand k's theres nothing in it. iridiums give a more consistant spark for longer.

If you get iridiums you can get 100k on a stock, sedately driven car according to ngk literature.

If you get copper's im sure you could get 30k plus if you baby the car and it is still stock (ngk state 20-40k from memory). Just be prepared for the inevitable miss fires associated with worn sparks at high load/high revs.

For coppers get bkr5es-11 for stock car, bkr6es-11(or -8 if you experience miss firing) for slightly modded car, bkr7es for heavily modded car.

For platinum/iridium equivalent check the ngk aussie website. You can find it on google.

Copper's give a better spark initially then start to wear. Within a couple of thousand k's theres nothing in it. iridiums give a more consistant spark for longer.

Coppers last a lot more than a couple of thousand km's.

I had my last set for 15,000 km with no issues. My A/F ratios are on a flat 12:1 so it gets hotter than a stock car would.

Only reason they were changed was b/c they were suspected of causing the misfire which turned out to be the coil packs.

I put the old ones back in b/c I cracked a few new ones from over tightening and the car felt no different. (new ones were in for a few hundred km's then removed again b/c they were not gapped properly.)

Iridiums do last much longer, but on a street driven car, they are a waste of money IMHO.

BCPR7ES - Coppers @ 0.8

Good for Sr20det's too.

that plug is too cold for a daily driver.

As BHDave said, a 5 heat range is good for stock, and 6 for modified.

7 is too cold, and should only be used when heavily modified.

BKR6E, or BCPR6E are your best bet.

They should be gapped at 0.8, and have the V groove which allows more edges for the spark to arc from.

You can purchase them pre-gapped. Just buy the plugs with the number that ends "-8" ( = 0.8mm gap) - the standard, recommended plug ends in "-11" ( = 1.1mm gap).

You shouldn't need to gap them down anyway. If you find that you do, then you should be looking at the coil packs, not the plugs.

Apparenly they don't do the -8 in the iridiums. Would I lose much power if I am running with .8mm instead of 1.1mm if it could actually handle the 1.1mm. I'm going to check my coil packs when I replace the sparkies. Thre is a slight hesitation when boost comes on so I'm thinking either sparkies or coil packs. I don't know how old spark plugs are....

Some say that the cracks are so small you can't even see it?? I was going o do the araldite trick if I can see cracs in them like what some of you guys have done :P

Thanks

Coppers last a lot more than a couple of thousand km's.

I had my last set for 15,000 km with no issues. My A/F ratios are on a flat 12:1 so it gets hotter than a stock car would.

Only reason they were changed was b/c they were suspected of causing the misfire which turned out to be the coil packs.

I put the old ones back in b/c I cracked a few new ones from over tightening and the car felt no different. (new ones were in for a few hundred km's then removed again b/c they were not gapped properly.)

Iridiums do last much longer, but on a street driven car, they are a waste of money IMHO.

What i ment by that was the coppers initially provide a better spark then iridiums/platinums. but within a few thousand ks they perform about the same and by 10k or so they are starting to get a bit past it, not that they are completely rooted after a couple of thousand ks

Anybody?

Is the BKR6E the platinum, and BCPR6E the copper?

If I get 2 years out of the coppers it should be ok.

both the bkr and bcp are coppers. Both fit though the bcp is the copper equiv for rb20 and 26, the bkr is the copper equiv for rb25.

generally the plugs with IEX (i think) at the end of the part number are iridiums.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...