Jump to content
SAU Community

Coilovers for R30

OLD SCHOOL R30
 Share

Recommended Posts

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Std R30 struts are coil overs . If by this you mean spherical top joints and threaded height adjusters you can build your own .

1) Take strut and remove spring seat , now grind the weld flush with the tube .

2) Cut the threaded section off the top of the strut tube .

3) With the correct mandril press it down the tube to expand it for 36mm inserts

that suit early Commode Doors . I used HDT spec Bilstein P36 0303's .

4) Buy the threaded adapter from Sydney Suspensions and weld to strut tube .

You have to trial fit and cut tube to the correct length .

5) Buy the threaded tubes and lock nuts and weld to strut tube .

6) Weld modified lower spring seat to upper threaded collar .

7) Buy and fit spherical strut top and assemble the units . Option Noltec are

Making R30 camber/caster adjustable strut tops - better for road .

I personally don't like the Silvia struts in Skylines , the damper section is much shorter and severely limits bump or upwards suspension travel . Decent brakes

can be fitted to early struts , DR30 or R31GTS preferably because of the four inch

(100 mm) caliper mount centres . Making up new hubs with the flange in the right offset for over stud type discs is a simple machining operation as is re drilling five stud disks .

None of this is dirt cheap but neither is the result . My modified DR30 struts owe me around $800-$850 and the car came with spherical camber adjustable strut tops . My brakes are std which is fine for stock car performance on the street .

Cheers A .

DR30RULES Enthusiast

DR30RULES

Posted
Posted

Re: do it yourself front brake upgrade for the r30

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can someone who has actually had the S13 converstion done and driven around while, tell me what it is like?

I have been talking to discopotato about the whole thing and the guy does make some very good points (mainly bump & upwards travel I think) about why this is not an ideal set up. (as far as I know)

I am having it properly sit up by a suspension specialist so hopefully this will minimize any problems, Yes?

Surely the lighter strut bodies of most aftermarket coilovers would reduce unsprug weight much more than converting std struts to height adjustable coilover?

I have heard that reducing unsprung weight is one of the best things you can do to improve the way your car handles.

Cheers

I dont know shite :confused: but I am learning

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted

from what i can make out so far, travel would be no different than if the coilovers were in an s-13, keep in mind that a good road height to have them at is close to full height, springs would be next, i'm still waiting on the rear coilovers to arrive then i'll be talking to some s-13 guys to see what lb springs they are using to get a better idea.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Just to give some idea what I set out to achieve .

The front struts I use were carried over from my last car (S1 Bluebird) and my No 1 priority was to get acceptable damping and spring rates . The man who developes most of my car mods has spent many years building and fabricating rally cars and their systems and is very switched on with suspension .

As club rally cars evolved the need for good dampers and damping rates became mandatory . Getting springs of nearly any rate wound up is not difficult but controlling the energy absorbed by the spring is . The spring is really the shock absorber , but if the energy in the compressed spring is not controlled it tries to launch the vehicle off the ground ie no traction or directional stability .

Back in the early 70's the works MK11 Escorts used Sport Bilstein dampers re valved to suit higher rate springs . The damping rates were about 290/90 and the gas pressurised oil resisted airation (air moves through the valve body with less resistance than oil - bad) .

The struts used on RWD Nissan/Datsun cars generally take I think 30-32mm diametre inserts and are not available in the damping rates I wanted . Bilstein did do a rally rate insert for 1600's (510's) with larger strut tubes . Their rate was similar to the Escort version (cars of similar size and weight) . These are no longer available so the next closest thing was the Sport Bilstein that HDT used on the lower V8 Commode Doors , rate 274/70 something part no P36 0303 . They don't fit the std strut tube so they need to be extruded with a mandrell or the strut foot bored out and a larger tube welded in . So my dampers were designed for a heavier vehicle (cast iron V8 deluxo Barge Dunny Door) to suit its higher rate springs and heavier wheels/tyres . In the lighter Bluebird (and now DR30) it works quite well and the dampers are rebuildable .

With regard to unsprung mass , the more weight you hang off the strut ie big brakes big boots , the more critical the damper rate becomes . Its more mass the spring has to throw when the spring extends .

I'm not keen on Japanese aftermarket suspension , they always set cars up too low , spring rates too high and damping rates merely hard rather than controlled .

What looks the part does not necessarily work real well .

Silvias use a later development of the macpherson strut with the clamp type upright and a much shorter damper body/strut tube . Their geometry and strut to ball joint centres hub/wheel offsets are different to R30/910/R31 . Its a lot to hope that its all compatible let alone the spring/damping rate being suitable for your car .

  • 2 weeks later...
DR30RULES Enthusiast

DR30RULES

Posted
Posted

Anyone heard anything about, or used HD coilovers. (link below)

http://www.sharifcaraudio.com.au/index.php...roducts&pid=176

I've heard they are good quality and are afforable.

The 'HR' type have stroke and 12 point damper adjustment and the height can be altered without changing spring pre load.

Hopefully using fully adjustable coilovers will minimize some of the problems when using S13 parts and allow the car's suspension to be tune propely (accurate? :confused: )

Can someone who has done the S13 convertion on a road car please comment on how it has changed the way the car handles, any problems that you have had etc :wavey: .

They normally come with 7k spring front and 6K springs rear but can be got in any spring rate. What spring rates would people recommend for a road DR (firm ride but not uncomfortable) that will sometimes be taken on to a track.

I'm about spend quite a bit on these coilover so any advise would be appreciated.

Cheers

DR JOSH Community Regular

DR JOSH

Posted
Posted

Well on my DR I still have full s13 shock absorber stroke I dunno if it's less then an R30's stroke but it's more then enough for usual street needs. The springs in my setup are stupidly stiff but thats what my setup comes down to. I havent really set it up for street needs more for drift but thats just me, s13 coilovers can be had in pretty much any spring rate with decent shockers, I or any of my mates running them havent had any problems, maybe if you were setting up a fully track prep'd car that may be a different story.

DR30RULES Enthusiast

DR30RULES

Posted
Posted
the full kit is $2090, thats with the s-13 brakes, s-13 hubs and r32 steering bits aswell, the coilovers are $1490 buy themselves. for $600 extras you may as well get the other bits to finish the job.

I can't find were the above stuff is listed for sale. Can you guys help. :confused:

By R31 fourm do you mean R31 skyline club

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/

I did a search both here and on R31 club but could not find anything.

Please help.

Cheers

DR30RULES Enthusiast

DR30RULES

Posted
Posted
here ya go, i posted in there 2 days ago and as yet haven't got a reply??

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?...p?topic=24398.0

RSX84, I just call the guy orginizing it and the group buy is still going. He does not know if anyone has installed the kit in R30.

Contact Pete

[email protected]

0409226626

Will the full kit (designed to fit R31) fit into an R30? I've heard the steering set up is quite different. If it does fit, does that mean I can also fit the R32 steering rack too as some of the guys on that fourm are talking about? (converting to rack and pinion :headbang: ). I've heard the R31 crossmember and streering rack do not fit R30. Is this true? I would really really like to improve the steering in my DR30.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...