Jump to content
SAU Community

MAX you'd pay for this bottom end (RB31DET)

mr_rbman
 Share

Recommended Posts

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the big question is, was the bottom end built for a rb31DET, or an ET. if it was built for the latter the compression ratio will be too low

nah its built for an RB31DET not a turbo bottom end as such, as long as i get the right head gasket the compression should be around the 8.5:1 which is what i'm after!

the pistons are na pistons but they have also been ceramic coated too and seeing as i'm only after an absolute maximum of 300rwkw's i think i won't have anything to worry about with this bottom end, most of my money i intend on using for tuning!

  • 1 month later...
Angry Proficient

Angry

Posted
Posted

nice pick up man .. gives me some scope on how much i should be lookin at getting my new project motor underway..

keeps up to date on the build man. .interested to see how u go..

Matt

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
bore number 4 has rust on it :rofl:

and he painted over the nice brass welch plugs, as if you would!

ye i know its starting to get rust, was perfect before i got it, its all covered up with heaps of sheets but the cold weather is hurting it, i don't have a shed to put it in so how can i prevent this? You won't see the engine once its in the car so it doesn't bother me them being painted!

StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

carefully remove the surface rust with light grade sandpaper - try and mimic the finish of the honing already there. an oil stone would be best if you can get it, just take the very surface of it off.

then coat the bores with oil. lots of oil. engine assembly lube would be better, it's a bit thicker and won't fall off the surface as easily. put the sump on and tape over the top face to keep air out, it won't rust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...