Jump to content
SAU Community

MAX you'd pay for this bottom end (RB31DET)

mr_rbman
 Share

Recommended Posts

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the big question is, was the bottom end built for a rb31DET, or an ET. if it was built for the latter the compression ratio will be too low

nah its built for an RB31DET not a turbo bottom end as such, as long as i get the right head gasket the compression should be around the 8.5:1 which is what i'm after!

the pistons are na pistons but they have also been ceramic coated too and seeing as i'm only after an absolute maximum of 300rwkw's i think i won't have anything to worry about with this bottom end, most of my money i intend on using for tuning!

  • 1 month later...
Angry Proficient

Angry

Posted
Posted

nice pick up man .. gives me some scope on how much i should be lookin at getting my new project motor underway..

keeps up to date on the build man. .interested to see how u go..

Matt

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
bore number 4 has rust on it :rofl:

and he painted over the nice brass welch plugs, as if you would!

ye i know its starting to get rust, was perfect before i got it, its all covered up with heaps of sheets but the cold weather is hurting it, i don't have a shed to put it in so how can i prevent this? You won't see the engine once its in the car so it doesn't bother me them being painted!

StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

carefully remove the surface rust with light grade sandpaper - try and mimic the finish of the honing already there. an oil stone would be best if you can get it, just take the very surface of it off.

then coat the bores with oil. lots of oil. engine assembly lube would be better, it's a bit thicker and won't fall off the surface as easily. put the sump on and tape over the top face to keep air out, it won't rust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...