Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering who everybody is insured with.

comprehensive or 3rd party.

How much theyre paying.

And how old you are?..

im thinking bout getting an r33 sii n/a and had a quick look at nrma online quoting tool...apparently they dont insure guys for skylines till they have atleast 10 years experience behind the wheel...its stupid really...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76409-who-are-you-insured-with/
Share on other sites

* I pay $800 Third Party Fire + Theft through Just Cars

* Maximum payout if car not recovered from theft or fire is $5000

* Lightly Modded - don't seem to be too fussed with aftermarket parts on cars

* 19 Years old in a DR30

Comprehensive insurance - R33 GTS-T

Just Cars

60% NCB

Loss of license last year due to speeding

A few basic mods

$20k value

$2080 per year.

On a side note, I looked around at S14As before Skylines... and one of them would have cost me $3560 per year... hence why I went the skyline :D

24

Just Car

R32 GTS-T

Mods: RB25DET, R33 gearbox/diffs, gtr body kit, custom paint, 18 inch wheels, full exhaust, custom intercooler

50% NCB

$1823 Full Comp

My old R33 was with just car, fully stock cept for front and rear bars, and it was $2654 full comp :)

24

R32 GTST 4 Dr

Standard except Zorst/wheels

$808 3rd party property fire and theft @ just cars

Lifetime maximum NCB.

No At fault accidents or license cancelations. I had one not at fault accident (chick rear ended me at round about)

I wanted comprehensive, but cheapest I got was $1800 with the maximum NCB at famouscarinsurance. Just Cars wanted $2700 with the maximum NCB. Neither would insure for more than $10,000 as that is the market value (says them)

I tried across 4 months and the above is my best offers, I had a lot worse from the same campanies.

They were aware that it was mostly a weekend driver, not a daily driver. It is garaged at all other times. I am not in a high risk area (country...about 40 mins from newcastle)

I will try again once I am 25.

Oh, and it took me about 5 phonecalls to Just Cars to get someone that would agree that a 1989 R32 existed. Everyone else said they didnt start till 1990. I had them telling me about "we are import specialists, and they did not start until 1990...if it is a 1989 model it is an R31" The way I got it done was I eventually got a girl, I guess she was new, or didn't have the knowledge to argue it, so she went to her boss or whatever. The other times were guys that obivously knew everything.

Insured with Famous

R32 GTSt for $14000

Full comp $1400 with 10 or 20% NCB

I have to park off the street at work & while within 500m of my house but neither have really been a problem for the 2 years I've been with them.

Famous Classic

1998 R33 GTS-t

50% No claim (originally valued it at $28 but i doubt that now)

Wheels and exhaust about it for mods

$1700 (but I'm over 30)

What's with "agreed value or market value, which ever is the lesser"

I hate that clause !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...