Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have a 3 page pdf covering skyline r34 gtr n1 vs holden gts monaro 300kw.

short story the gtr kills it in all aspects including torque and power.

1/4 is blows it away, 0 to 100 kills it and all around beats its as well

Hey guys, just a question..do you think a Holden HSV or Ford FPV can beat a fully Mod GTR R34 V-spec or can the HSVs and FPVs beat a Stock GTR R34 Vspec? please advice. To what i know in the previous thread, someone's R34 won a HSV by 1 sec in a 1/4 mile?  

Cheers

:chairshot

the red is the gtr btw :uh-huh:

My stock R34 gtr ( with 3" catback , i didn't have the stock catback ) did 12.8 @wsid .

Dead stock probably very low 13 or even 13 flat .

With very few mod it will do a flat 12 or very high 11 .

I would like to see a moded HSV or FPV pull anywhere near 12 with street tyres , stock they do 14's .

Looks like the HSV and FPVs dude can smell the smoke of the GTR then. How about a '96 R33 GTS25T series 2 against other cars. Which cars can the GTST stand a chance against?? Any chance against an STI?

Not a hope in hell , stock sti's are good for mid 13's , even stock normal rexes are good for flat 14 and some models even very high 13's .

Of course we are talking bog stock cars now , different story if moded .

My stock R34 gtr ( with 3" catback , i didn't have the stock catback ) did 12.8 @wsid .

Dead stock probably very low 13 or even 13 flat .

With very few mod it will do a flat 12 or very high 11 .

I would like to see a moded HSV or FPV pull anywhere near 12 with street tyres , stock they do 14's .

Come to Calder drag strip and you'll see a few Fords and holden crack 12's with street tyres. But then again you're not from Melb.

As for the 14's on stock, that's probably right for Ford but not the new HSV. Should be around mid 13's.

A stock R33 GTS-T will run about 14.5 second 1/4. Put some mods on it and it will go even faster. You will beat most stuff out there and it is a nice ride.

Costs a darn lot less than a new HSV or WRX too :)

we all know holdens and fords are shit. I watched my boss in his 4.0L V6 2tonne Toyota Prado with 3 of us and all our Nandos for lunch juuuust drag off a 230kW 6sp man. SS commondore owned by a co-worker. he was not impressed with his new SS. what a joke.

rb25

Yeah the holdens and fords have the numbers... well they advertise the numbers.

my na supra went reasonably well against an SS. Thats just crazy. They must talk up there kws by alot.

I'd luv to run one in my 32GTR, I think they would disapoint the bogans out there.

ps - as for the original question...

its not serious is it? is it even a question?

v8's are nothing but fuel chewing tanks. There only good for that 'sound' that some people say only a v8 can make.

I'm by no means bagging holden, i've seen a VT v6 run an 12.01 @ 120.58mph on street tyres, and that was with a nasty 2.133 60ft time, same car dynoed 440.8 rwhp with stock internals.

as for FPV's, well we all know the GT is just a name (not going to bag it though, loved the GTHO's to death) and i don't think anyone is impressed with the f6's start with the recall and clutch problems they had.

so all in all, my views $ to performance, you carn't go past a nice stock low km 33 :)

Plus if you then do decide to mod the 33, parts are quite easy to get, and arn't going to costly.

well that's my thoughts anyway

I watched my boss in his 4.0L V6 2tonne Toyota Prado with 3 of us and all our Nandos for lunch juuuust drag off a 230kW 6sp man. SS commondore owned by a co-worker. he was not impressed with his new SS. what a joke.

rb25

hahah are you serious??

What drag off from 0-20km/h?? :)

v8's are nothing but fuel chewing tanks.

There's a hell of a lot of RB25's out there only getting 300-350km's per tank.

That would make the LS1/LS2's better on fuel. :)

The majority of R33 GTST's are slow until you throw a PowerFC at it.

When I say slow I mean an R32 RB20DET with the same mods; fmic, boost and exhaust IS quicker.

Unless its some freak arsed 95' model ecu that doesn't have the horrible power dips. One I know of some time ago pulled 200rwkw with only the mods listed above. It ran a lowish 13 sec 1/4.

hahah are you serious??

 

What drag off from 0-20km/h?? :D

serious, from about 30k/hr to 100k/hr. I couldnt believe how quickly that 4L V6 revs out. The poor bastard doesnt talk the SS up anymore and he definately wont race my modded 33 now (aka 2L jap piece of shit). The pathetic thing is he sold his auto gen3 for a manual 'coz its quicker'. hilarious

-rb25

so normally what kind of performance  car can a stock or lightly mod R33 GTST go against? I just  wanna find out because i'm looking around for a 33.

Any. On the track, its as much about the driver as it is about the hardware.

I've seen a stock Hyundai Elantra get around modified S13s, S15s, R32s and R33's at Wakefield. But then the Nissans were being driven by ricers, and the Elantra was driven by a guy who races Formula Fords.

And, to answer your original question, a stock R34 N1 will beat a HSV, so unless the mods done make the car go slower then that's not going to change. Its not really fair to compare a stock car against a "fully mod" one though. The LS1 responds pretty well to "light" mods (especially when you remove the restrictive MAF from them).

But, if all you're interested in is quarter mile times, don't waste a GT-R. You're not really getting the point of a GT-R if your idea of what a performance car should do well is one dimensional.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...