Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeha its a meaty looking piece of machinery.

I wonder if they are all already sold/pre-ordered yet....

There are still Z tunes availble to be purchased. Ideally Nismo would like 1 per country in the worlds major countries (US, AUS, UK etc...)

They say that Nismo's got the car down to a 10.06 0-400m.

Part of me wants to get it to dip in to the 9's. The other realises that doing so means it'll have to be caged for most drag racing venues internationally, so keeping it just above 10sec might be a strategic choice.

They say that Nismo's got the car down to a 10.06 0-400m.

Part of me wants to get it to dip in to the 9's. The other realises that doing so means it'll have to be caged for most drag racing venues internationally, so keeping it just above 10sec might be a strategic choice.

Nismo aren't really interested in 1/4 mile times out of the Z Tune (in fact I can't recall any time at all they've been into drag racing), so I doubt there was any strategy to the times it produced. I dare say they got the times as an indication of the acceleration capabilities of the car. The car is more aimed at street driving with the ability to take it to the track and not have to modify any of the cars components in doing so.

i thought the GTR34 ceased production in 2002 ? also would the odometre have a reading of 10km or <30,000km ?

nice car btw. well worth the 220g

It did..

The Nismo Z Tune is classed as a 2005 Model however the base cars used are all 2nd hand R34 GTR's with less than 30,000 K's. The car is rebuilt with ALL BRAND NEW parts so you could say that save for the original chassis and parts of the shell, it's a brand new car. Most body panels are new, the engine is completely new, the interior is new, brakes, suspension, wheels, etc.....

And the Odometer would start at 0km as Nismo install their own dash cluster brand new. I would happily call it a brand new car.. calling it 30,000k's old or a 2nd hand R34 GTR is getting rediculously pedantic to be honest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...