Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you get shinny finish you can just wet rub it with 1500 grit and water and get a perfect mat surface..... Im still keen on all part I first said I was, but I want a more indicative price on what the difference is between full carbon and, composite.

  • 2 years later...

these guys are quite cheap mate of mine got 2 doors and boot in carbon delivered for bout $2000

http://www.racepro.co.nz/bk_nissan.htm

Edited by jas/slo32
these guys are quite cheap mate of mine got 2 doors and boot in carbon delivered for bout $200

http://www.racepro.co.nz/bk_nissan.htm

Door skins on the outside or the inside part?

Im up for that stuff for $200. Can you organise it? :D

lol might be an idea to look at when this thread started :P

Fark, june 2005. Wonder if he's still haggling for a good price ?

Edited by SNISMO

sorry mate $2000 full carbon doors inner and outer bolt them on and also bolt in internals and cards ( complete carbon doors ) as used by heat treatments racing and boot for that

  • 1 month later...

gday mate are the headlight intakes on r32 gtr the two inserts under the headlights but more central in the front bar? if they are what was the asking price for some in carbon fibre with the shiny finish? cheers

post-49662-1209795918_thumb.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...