Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 345
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Buddy Club P1 QF FORGED with comp rubber 7.4kg rim weight

18x10 +12 all round.

114.3 5 hole

Falken Azenis semi comp 245/40/18

GT-R suitable.

one slight scratch on one rim. No gutter damage whatsoever.

$3000 landed. ( coming soon )

kaireican-img600x450-1123988210dsc05354.jpg

sure thing Rick.

we so require a 50% securing deposit prior to bidding/purchasing.

Once we have secured the product, shipping takes approximately 6 weeks to reach your door. Once they have landed here in sydney, we request final payment prior to sending the product to you via local courier.

HOLY CRAP!

I was under the impression it was the whole asking price then we receive the goods?

HOLY CRAP!

I was under the impression it was the whole asking price then we receive the goods?

50% up front.

50% once goods land in Australia.

Goods not released until payment is made in full.

i think that makes it clear. :)

  • 2 weeks later...
NISMO LM GT3

18x10 +20 all round GT-R suitable.

two rims have very slight gutter mark.

Dunlop FM-901 rubber 275/35/18

Closing August 29th. This set will sell and won't be relisted.

$2700 landed

tera374638-img600x450-1122201523dscf0459.jpg

tera374638-img600x450-1122201562dscf0461.jpg

They relisted - 128,000 "buy it now" ! Tempting but does that rubber look fairly worn out to you? Can't tell, bad angles. What does the text say about it?

  • 2 weeks later...

TBee,

these are more suited to the R33 and R34.

however, being a 9.5" rim, the +12 offset will certainly bring the wheels out to the edge of the guards, perhaps lipping of the guards will be enough. will double check.

ok, just checked... these were originally on a R34.

i know 10" rims can fit under a R32 with a +22 to +25 offset.

given those specs, these rims are a 9.5" width, taking into consideration that the offsets are bringing the wheels out a further 10-12mm with only 6mm less rim on the outer, these wheels will be sitting approximately 6mm further out than a 10" with a +22ish offset.

slight rolling of the guards may be needed to get these babies to fit.

estimating between $2500 and $2800 landed at this stage.

How much do you think those GramLights 57C will go for ?

I'd be only really after something with almost brand new rubber?

Cheers

That set in particular closed nine days ago, as mentioned on the post.

( September 7th )

I can source out some other rims that may be of interest.

Do you have sizes in mind?

17 inch 9/9.5 wide? rubber included i pressume.

Cheers.

Volk Racing GT-C in BLACK

18x9 +18 all round.

GT-R suitable.

Bids close September 23rd.

moro3_2000-img600x450-1126833718img_1001.jpg

Work Meister S1

18x9.5 +20 all round. some minor gutter scuffs.

Yoko rubber. 265/35/18

6-7mm tread

Closing September 23rd

from $3600 landed

miyupapa11-img600x450-1126859273aomori_108.jpg




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...