Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've had problems starting my car. This is what can be ruled out.

1) I've got 2 brand new batterys now. One extra extra heavy duty with big plates.

2) Alternator is fine, when car is on volts is 14.2

3) Starter motor is fine too.

Now the problem is that, i charge my battery, end up being like 14.1 volts (that was after a few hours) and the car starts fine. However, once the car sits (today i drove it at 8.30am) and went to start it at 1.00pm the car was dead? :confused:

I know for a fact that my alternator is charging the battery, because within a hour after it can still start.

I have no amp, no headunit, but i do have neons (not on however)

Should i take these out to rule them out of the question too?

I also have a brant alarm, but i dont know if this could be the problem? how could i find out, i dont know where it is or how 2 by pass it? If anyone knows that can you PM me.

If anyone has had this problem before, would you be able to tell me what it was on yours? or what i could try. Thanks in advance.

This is a really frustrating matter!

Dayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77613-what-could-it-be/
Share on other sites

it sounds like something is draining your battery , to make sure the battery is good charge it up then disconect it ( the the neg off the battery ) , leave it for for a couple of days then try to start it . If it starts normal then the battery is good so you can look elsewhere .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77613-what-could-it-be/#findComment-1418810
Share on other sites

I know for a fact that the battery is fine. But thanks for that anyway.

I just disconnected my headunit properly (terminated the wires) as well as neons in car, and underbody. I also removed the earth off the alarm. So i'll go down and see in 5 or so hours if the car still starts, then i can eliminate it from there. Just a question, who can remove brant alarms? should anyone be able to do it?

Dayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77613-what-could-it-be/#findComment-1418894
Share on other sites

how do i check if its the regulator andrew?
Get hold of a multi-meter, set to 20V DC. Fire up the engine.

Measure V across battery terminals - should be around 14V at idle

Now increase revs- V should remain around 14V.

If V increases, then regulator is kaput.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77613-what-could-it-be/#findComment-1418937
Share on other sites

it stays at 14.2 when the car is on.

With what you said race_snooze, the car will remain to start for a few hours after. Its after this period of time that the power is gone. so something is draining it, so now i can rule out regulartor, starter motor, battery, alternator. I'll find out soon wether or not its the alarm doing this, and if i cant find the problem tonight, its off to an auto elect.

Cheers for all the input. keep it comming:D

Dayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77613-what-could-it-be/#findComment-1418966
Share on other sites

it stays at 14.2 when the car is on.

With what you said race_snooze, the car will remain to start for a few hours after. Its after this period of time that the power is gone. so something is draining it, so now i can rule out regulartor, starter motor, battery, alternator. I'll find out soon wether or not its the alarm doing this, and if i cant find the problem tonight, its off to an auto elect.

Cheers for all the input. keep it comming:D

Dayne

I had this problem in my car it was the back-up battery in the alarm. Coz the battery was stuffed in the alarm it tried charging it all the time and draining the car battery at the same time.You could try that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77613-what-could-it-be/#findComment-1419000
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...