Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl!

Just wondering if anyone can tell me alittle about manual boost controllers. I've seen a couple of these Turbosmart ones.

An In Cabin type which allows for boost adjustment on the run.

And a Single Stage one that provides fast boost response with one adjustable boost level. Apparently ideal for turbo cars without factory boost controllers and you can switch between standard and high boost. Has like a rocket launcher Switch too.

Any help would be appreciated!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77684-manual-boost-controllers/
Share on other sites

Dave,

I think most people start off with a bleed-valve type setup then move on to an EBC system later on. I like the fact I can have 2 boost settings with my EBC - Makes for more enjoyable driving sometimes when you just want stock cruisy boost and not boost that gets cranked up at 1/4 throttle ;)

If ya want some advice, go with an EBC straight up - A Hybrid one can be had for around $300~ new, or you can pick one up 2nd hand, in cabin control is where it's at :D

Hey Dude ,

If you do want to start with a bleed valve , use the simple Turbosmart one ,

they are "Gated" which simply means that they have a 5 psi check valve in them , which means no wastegate creep til atleast 5psi...... short version = better throttle response :P

If you use their "Single stage"(stock & Hi) one & your car is an auto you can use a relay to the Power/Norm/Snow button to fire it ( I did ;P) so when the auto is set to Power , the boost is set to High! All good. :burnout:

Go the turbotech ones Mark is selling in the Forced Induction Performance thread. I bought one for $35 and it works mint. Hold 12PSI perfectly, no spiking and no boost loss.

Don't be a weenie, u don't need 2 settings, you just need to be able to drive better then strich9 ;)

Yeah EBCs are sweet but a whole lot more then this controller....

Thanks guys!

I do prefer an EBC type, but I was under the impression that they were heaps expensive!

Rep003, I like that idea, I was thinking sort of the same thing :) I could probably do that for now and change to an EBC once I get some more cash together!

See I actually want to run more than 12psi, say 15 or so, care of my mate Kym ;) so do you think the manual type would handle that? (of course I'll be putting in a FMIC)

Anyway I'll have a think and a bit more research around, thanks again guys!!

Hey man i have a Blitz in cabin boost controller for sale

my car has been running up to 1.2 bar of boost through it

is for sale, name your price

personal message me or email at  

alanschmidt@inthemix.com.au

Thanks man but I've decided to go the PFC direction with EBC option, just need to save up now! Thanks anyway mate! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...