Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just want to hear what people have to say about whether to go all performance or whether looks and style is the go? Personally i am a man for both, don't get me wrong i love sleepers that are off there nut but ya can't tell, but i also admire those who can have a crazy looking car with the go aswell. I am 17, and got about lets see...52 days till i can drive my car legally. I got a 95 model M-Spec R33 Skyline GTSt. I been saving some bucks over the last few weeks and am stuck bad... i am keen to get it dressed in a full JUN bodykit, and have organised to pick up the side skirts and rear bar next week if i want, BUT... i dunno if i should spend that money on performance gear instead i.e. boost to about 10-11psi, front mount, AFC, shot shift etc... It already has some ncie 17's, been lowered heaps, filter, full 3" Fujitsubo LegalisR exhaust, Autometer gauges, and pioneer system.

I would like to hear peoples thoughts on this one. L8ters all, J.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7800-looks-or-performance/
Share on other sites

no offence bro, but seeing as to how ure a new driver....the Skyline is a huge step up from the Charade that you learn to drive at driving school. i reckon, if you wanna spend money on your car, to make it look nice instead of adding power coz u should learn to control it first.

later,

bambam

I wouldn't be doing any more performance mods until you're sure you can handle the car's power and have a bit more driving experience, hell, you don't want to end up a vegie all your life because you mis-calculated a corner, took it too fast and wrapped your skyline around a tree do you?

If you can afford to buy and modify the car I'm sure you can afford to do an advanced driving course. Best investment I've had and you see things from a very different perspective.

As for show or go car, I prefer go. Mainly cause I don't like the unwanted attention of theving w@nkers.

bah!

my first car was a wrx, my 2nd was a skyline.

just don't be a dickwad on the road, respect your car and most importantly respect others around you.

you'll learn how to drive your car as most of us have with time.

as for looks vs performance. id like a good balance of both...

Interesting thread starter :)

Personally I am way for more balls over brass. I think when you get older you stop caring as much for the looks of the car or its the most important thing. That's not to say you want a shitty looking car, just some of the wilder stuff that you might think of when younger (all that neon stuff, big woofers, fog lights, etc) doesn't seem as important. I had a couple of dents on the old car and it was just, so what, it was still comfortable to drive, was running well, etc so it was ok for what it was. I just found it was power I wanted most :D

After a while you also start looking at other people's cars on the road with monster spoilers, dodgy paint jobs, stickers on every orrifice, big holes cut in the bonet for no apparent reason and they are slow as shit...just going "omg - just wtf are they thinking?" and u just wonder what is going on in their mind "do they know that looks so bad its not funny? or do they think its actually the hottest thing since sliced toast?"

With the whole young person driving thing I'd agree with some of the other guys... take it easy.. you're lucky to be driving that sort of car at that age, and it probably does have too much power that is safe just as standard. Learn to control the car as is before going ape and doing it up. If you crash it or the cops pull you over its just more things that will mean you're not going to be driving a nice skyline for long.

I've had several indicidents over the years - none were really my fault and none were serious, but they happened. They will probably happen to you depending on how you drive, and how many km you drive each year - its just a matter of averages no matter how good anybody drives.

But push it too much, you have a serious accident and hurt either yourself or somebody else badly, the cops decide your mods were illegal, the insurance company says "we're not going to cover that", and you have a 20k or so loan, no car, or lots to fix it, plus possible legal shit hanging over your head. I've heard it happen to many young guys and its not pretty. That sort of thing can haunt you for years.

A mix of both is requires IMHO. but I would say that if this is your first experience in a turbo'd RWD car, but the kit with the money you have mate. definately get used to the power and driving characteristics before going for more power man. It's got a few engine bits on it as it is. So enjoy it how it is for a while and when you believe you can handle the power, go for more.

A car should look as fast as it goes

Hey thats not a bad one... see you could have like a judging panel where there was a points system - your performance points had to equal your rice points :(

Or the cops could be actively enforcing it: say an excel driver..

"nah sorry mate, you need an extra 100kw there for you to be able to put that spoiler on, i'm booking you. You're an embarrasement to the road" :D:)

Originally posted by Timmy G

A car should look as fast as it goes :D

Turn that around and that is my belief, If a car trys to look fast then it should go fast... i do think a standard gtst is a fastish kind of car so spoilers wouldn't hurt... but what i mean by "A car should go as fast as it looks" Is that I dislike Lancers and Hyundai Excels with spoiler kits going everywhere mainly because they are trying to get the extra attention by dressing their car up to look fast but "all show no go"

just got your p's hey

just wait learn to drive the thing

you get the body kit you will just run it upa gutter and *** it

you get the power youll just run it up a gutter fast and harder and *** it some more

but then again if you 17 and can afford a skyline you should be able to afford the rebuild of the front end when you finally hit that gutter

my first car wasa rb gemmini and it it aboout 15 gutters, one car couple of trees hard in its time

pete

well i will go with what they guys say =) should look as fast as it goes but remeber the more fancy you make your car look they more attention it gets so if you are a very padantic person and worry about it all the time i would advise not making it full on hot with kits etc. there are a lot of jelous people around these days

so take that into consideration

as for driving it

i would say the same thing as most guys say

if you are sensible respect the car and the poeple on the road you will be fine just dont get carried away with the car and the power =)

Originally posted by skyline33

what about spending the money on handling (suspension, brakes, etc)?  make the car more predictable and safer

stock suspension is safe as you can get. It's forgiving and predictable. Brakes can always be improved though.

Spending big $$$ on looks will be wasted if u smash ur car coz u can't handle it around corners, for example. But spending $$$ on power mods will even be more suicidal if you can't handle it either.

Stock suspension is already good enough for daily driving even for corner handling, unless you really want to go serious with circuit racing, drag race or drifting, then upgrade your suspension accordingly.

Maybe investing in a driver training course might also be good idea. It's not only just for beginner, even seasoned drivers can learn a few new things from it.

I have been driving for 14 years (since 1988), and only 2 light accidents during the first years of driving my small powered car with 1.0 litre 4-cyl engines. All my other (higher powered) cars during the past 10 years have been totally accident-free. Still, I am signing up for a one day intensive advance driving session after the New Year. I am sure I will still learn a thing or two from it. Will let you all know how it goes and if it's worth the money... If it's good, I will sign up a 2nd stage advance driving (slalom skill), then 3rd stage (circuit racing). They're expensive (expect to spend close to $900 for all 3 levels) so will see how the first one goes...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...