Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm interested in both 180sx and skyline R33

I'm currently leaning towards skyline.

Don't get me wrong, both cars are good.

I would like to assume that the skyline is more expensive to maintain.

But how much more?

which is better in term of value for money, performance to cost/maintainence ...

comfort wise definitely skyline.

found a 1995 skyline with hks coils, pod filter, 134000km selling for $16k

. is the car expensive?

(the car is basically stock)

Thankz

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

- I think for a pretty much stock car you should be able to get a better price than that.

- Have you looked at the S2 R33, imo they look better + are newer..

- you have options whether you want one already sold in Aus - or a fresh import..

- When getting a skyline it will be a newer car generally than a 180sx however will be slightly more expensive..

- pretty much comes down to personal preference..

- i prefer safety over old cars - hence getting skyline with ABS and Dual Airbags.. but that's a personal reason..

- You also want to look at resale price.. if you put an extra 30,000kms on it than your resale will drop..

- are you wanting private or dealer..

If you want down right balls... go a 180sx.

They look hot and go hard, simply because they are lighter than all the skyline range!

If you want interior comfort then a Skyline is worlds apart.

Skylines are a mix of looks, comfort and performance where as the 180sx can look good but is just a very good performance car. Abit older + a boring interior makes the Skyline a better choice in my opinion.

yeh, depends on what you can handle. my mate has a modded 180, 244rwkw. my line has 220rwkw.

the 180 is damn quick, breaks traction on boost, handles and goes like a rocket....but its loud and rattly, bounces over bumps at speed, really really light, steering feels a bit iffy due to the strut set up. but power is like an on/off switch, hits really hard. good engine to work on, lots of room in engine bay. very strong reliable motor.

the 33, is more refined, a bit slower, but not by much, specially with stock turbs, smoother engine, smoother power delivery, its alot easier to cruise in. the interior is much nicer, more bearable. steering and handling is alot better due to the more advanced suspension and the extra weight stops it from bouncing all over the road.

all depends on how much money you have and what you prefer the look of, you can always put an RB in the 180..

cheers

Linton

R32GTR! they cost like 22-28k

i can't afford that, i wish i can though.

how much do u spent on ur skyline r33 gtst per month. fuel etc?

trivial question , how much is the transfer fee for vehicles like that (180/skyline)?

Just got a bank loan for 15k and i don't wanna go overboard with my finance ..

(who doesn't? :))

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...