Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I need your help. My mind is split on deciding which car to do up. I have a 94' R33 gtst and a 96' Supra (t-turbo, 6 speed, inline 6)

The skyline is predominantly stock but the supra has had little work done.

I want to choose a car to do up fully engine wise and mild body work......i mean eeeevverything. The other car will be daily driven.

questions,

1. Which car will have more potential once modified?

2. Which car is cheaper to do UP?

3. Ease of availabilty of parts standard and aftermarket?

4. Which car will have more rwkw with the same mods?

You may be wondering what mods i will be doing, check back next time once i have finalised the works with my engineer.

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78739-undecided-which-1/
Share on other sites

1. both have unlimited potential depends how deep your pockets are

2. supra, they have bullet proof bottom ends which means u can go further before needing to touch

3. both the same, supra has a huge US following whilst the r33 has a followiung in australia, both have massive japanese followings as well

4. tough call, different engines, different weights, supra has 2 turbos stock etc......supra will go better cheaper

Why do people compare the TT SP Supras to the GTST Skylines? They're not really in the same league, nor were they ever intented to be. Even stock for stock, a TT 6SP Supra would simply kill a GTST. No question.

I'm pretty certain the Supra engine has considerably more modding capabilities than the Gtst.

Regards,

Andrew

dude if u want power go witht he 2JZ for sure, id take the supra TT over the gtst anyday without a doubt, though if u had a GTR it would be a different story altogether

anywayz dude, ur lucky for having 2 very respectful Jap imports and imo use the r33 as ur daily driver and RZ as ur weekend thrasher

This will be a long term project for me and i can have deep pockets if an when needed.

If i do decide to mod the gtst i will be dropping an RB26DETT, possibly ditch the twin turbos and go for one large baby. Then carry on with further planned mods. So in actual fact we are able to compare them. Both may have twin or single turbos and there both 6 cycls.

If i win again another day I'd mod them both.....................***if and when....I think i'm dreaming***

How abt selling both and buying an r34 GTR?

and perhaps a 1991 mazda 323 as a daily.

You have to be pretty specific though...do u want just a fast street car? a drag car? a track car?

Guess what........If my girlfriend comes back with a positive result, i will be doing just that, buying a SP23 but not a GTR.

I want a fast every thing street, drag and track!

Depends on how far you want to go with mods my mate is a supra TT with similar mods to my gtst and I expected to get flogged but it was quiet the opisite. He has more RWKW than my but dont be fooled they are a lot heavier car. The line kills it but if you want to go all out the supra may go harder for less. Supra has a better engine and will handel more power in stock form but the Skyline is a lighter car and still has a great engine. Personally id go the skyline.

:)

This is a no brainer. Supra > Gts-t.

It will shit on it. You own both cars. Don't you notice the superiority of the Supra? I have a 240rwkw R33 Gts-t and yeh it's great but I'd swap it for a TT Supra any day. Possibly even a stock one if it was is good condition.

Post this on a Toyota forum (www.toymods.org.au) and see what answers you get. 99% will laugh at the question.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...