Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Delema...

Car has a CD player and a cassette/stacker. now the cd shows stuff (buttons) on the TV and the volume is on the cassette unit. I has an Alpine touch screen TV all in one from my last car.

My delema is I either disconnect the CD and cassette and have 2 dins spare then put my alpine in and have 1 spare.And thats counting on it fitting because the 34 has a slopey design and the top CD player sticks out a lot. I did actually get the TV to play movies via an external NTSC source but thats a bit gay.

Whatabout the soarers I heard the TV can be converted for TV signal.

Has anyone put a unit in before?

it sort of looks like this.

/

/

/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79446-34-gtrtv-use-and-stereo-installation/
Share on other sites

Not too sure what you're asking? I have got a 1 DIN sized CD/DVD/MP3 player in the top slot and a map pocket in the 2nd DIN slot.

I have my DVD player connected to the MFD via the simple modification you can do but my DVD player can output NTSC or PAL regardless of the DVD region. But yeah I hardly ever use it.

As for converting the MFD to receive aussie TV signals i dont think its possible or worthwhile. As far as I know the TV button isn't anything to do with receiving Jap TV at all and simply a toggle switch to go from MFD to NTSC input mode for things like sat nav, and other AV factory options.

no pics on me at the moment unforunately but there are no gaps at all. You will find that all aftermarket CD players come with little plastic surrounds that can be modified pretty easily if you find that there are some gaps. The way the R34 dash is designed tho the brushed aluminium covers the gaps up quite well.

And yeah, I can watch DVD's through the factory monitor. This requires a small amount of modification to the MFD. You have to pull it apart and solder two wires to various pins and mount an RCA socket on the back of it. Very simple to do.

Link:

http://www.gtrcentral.com/technical/how_to...ideo_Signal.pdf

mine has the TV button on the cd player. is that a hassle?

Is your's a Vspec? This mod only works for MFD's with TV buttons on the MFD itself as far as i know. This is my interior before I put an aftermarket CD player in:

http://www.sewid.org/mycar/BNR34/BeforeCom...tos/photo10.jpg

That top "CD player" is a sat nav system :rofl: The CD drive is for the map CD/DVD. Its a bummer too because you cant make it work in Australia (the nav) and it kinda clutters up your dash.

One option would be to pull the unit out and get the non-nav climate control unit from Yahoo Japan auctions - then you get more space for your audio gear. I see them go pretty cheap occasionally.

hey guy! im interested to know what sort of ball park figures did it cost you's to import ur 34 gtr's?  

Cheers

Well i imported mine before import duty changed to 10% (was 15%) and when the aussie dollar was a bit weaker against the yen so it's not really relevant how much it cost to import.

I can tell you tho that there are a few more issues when importing a car worth over $60k like extra stamp duty and Luxury car tax that many "import cost calculators" dont take into account, then there's compliance cost blowouts like stock parts, and brembo brake pads.

It's not easy to have a good condition no accident damaged car landed and complied under $70k - then you gotta pay rego and stamp duty...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...