Jump to content
SAU Community

How much can R33 stock fuel pump push (in kw)

Starionturbo
 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Just some advise, something learnt by experience.  Buy the 040, build a surge tank a little bigger, and mount the 040 inside the surge tank.  This will help reduce the noise from the pump (and trust me a 044/040 is bloody noisy), you can then put as much sound damping material, as you prefer, all over the surge tank to reduce the noise even more.  Fuel will also act as a coolant for the pump.  With a 044 (external) you are unable to dampen the noise as you run a risk of overheating the pump (so i have been told).

Surge tanks? hrm... So what are people going to use as a lifter? Thier old pump that is dying? Thats not a good idea. You should have 2 new pumps, one can be of far lesser flow of course.

As you dont wanna starve the $$ pump later cause you dont know when your stocker pump its died. Then its more $$$ outta your pocket.

For the basic application an intank is best and works quite well.

Im fairly certain my Ext pump on my surge tank is a 040/044, if not its a 984, and i cant really hear it that loud at all and its open in the boot and all

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
I will get the Fuel pump when I get the PFC tuned.

As far as injectors go, ive spoken to many a performance shop, and said the RB25s injectors seem to be at there max at about 250-260 rwkw.

With what fuel pressure reg?

You would really be pumpin up the pressure in the fuel rail to make this power with std inj. :uhh:

Sard 550cc injectors, 235rwkw, 80% max duty cycle@full throttle

At 185rwkw, std injectors, std reg, 93% max duty cycle@full throttle. So where are you going to find the extra fuel to acheive 250-260rwkw with std injectors?

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Gee ur making me think hard now (new owner has had it for about 3mths).

R33 GTS-t, 198rwkw, 3" full nismo exhaust (pretty quiet compared to most GTS-t's), std turbo, std ecu, fmic, k&n, ex cam gear.

:rant:

Nah buddy, i was refering to fuel pump set-up.

Car: R33

Pump: in boot (Ext); in tank; Under car (Ext); etc ?

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Surge tanks? hrm... So what are people going to use as a lifter? Thier old pump that is dying? Thats not a good idea. You should have 2 new pumps, one can be of far lesser flow of course.

As you dont wanna starve the $$ pump later cause you dont know when your stocker pump its died. Then its more $$$ outta your pocket.

For the basic application an intank is best and works quite well.

Im fairly certain my Ext pump on my surge tank is a 040/044, if not its a 984, and i cant really hear it that loud at all and its open in the boot and all

100% agreed....

Intank 040 is best for general application, but if doing alot of track days i would consider surge tank. Ppl should also get in the habit of filling up when gauge reads a quater, to ensure fuel starvation will not happen an to keep the pump cool.

You must have a different opinion of what is loud, as i heard your pump and it is on par with mine, and yes yours appeared to be a 044 just like mine :rant:

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
As far as injectors go, ive spoken to many a performance shop, and said the RB25s injectors seem to be at there max at about 250-260 rwkw.

depends what ECU

but 9 times outta 10 you will never get close to that

TommO Grand Master

TommO

Posted
Posted

I've got a stock R33 S2... my thoughts:

I checked mine on the dyno and it was running lean (13.5:1 AFRS). Turns out the pump was on the way out, and it wasn't getting enough volts. For a few hundred dollars, I don't see why you wouldn't upgrade to a better one to ensure your engine doesn't go bang, especially considering it's a rather common problem to have the fuel pumps let go.

I fitted a Walbro 500HP pump and it's been fine ever since :rant:

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
You must have a different opinion of what is loud, as i heard your pump and it is on par with mine, and yes yours appeared to be a 044 just like mine :rant:

maybe :)

but if i cant hear it whilst driving along over the exhaust, then i dont care as a general rule.

  • 2 weeks later...
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
I've got a stock R33 S2... my thoughts:

I checked mine on the dyno and it was running lean (13.5:1 AFRS). Turns out the pump was on the way out, and it wasn't getting enough volts. For a few hundred dollars, I don't see why you wouldn't upgrade to a better one to ensure your engine doesn't go bang, especially considering it's a rather common problem to have the fuel pumps let go.

I fitted a Walbro 500HP pump and it's been fine ever since :P

:werd:

This is why I had my pump changed. Also fixed my annoying starting issue where it would never crank on first turn of the key to full start. You would have to turn it to 3 and wait a few seconds before trying and then it would crank over. The stock pump is one intank pump and thats it

  • 6 years later...
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the injectors and regulator control how much fuel goes into the engine, not the pump

the pump provides the rail with pressure and flow

as long as you have enough pressure and flow it is fine

its only when you start sucking more power out of the engine, thus using more fuel you need a higher flowing pump to keep up

if you dont get a higher flowing pump, when you make more power, the engine uses more fuel and sucks more fuel off the rail

but because you have the original pump it can only flow so much fuel and pressure, thus you don't get enough fuel into the rail and injectors

end result is you start to lean out the AF/R fuel mixture, which in turn causes excessive exhaust gas temps and melts the valves and blows the motor

a fuel pump is not something to be short changed or skimped on to save $100

re: reliability

if a fuel pump fails, the engine stalls and it's fine

if a fuel pump cant keep up flow rate and keeps working - this is critical and kills the motor

this is why its important to buy a genunie fuel pump that is rated correctly for your usage

and an even better insurance policy is to have an AF/R guage with warning

welcome from 2005

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

The pump provides flow, the regulator provides pressure/restriction

Tomei/nismo/HKS pump is still the way to go. I'm so happy with mine, hasn't missed a beat and is quieter then the common alternatives (walbro, Bosch)

Worth spending the extra money

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...