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Ok been down to auto barn to pick up the following... Im doing a little more than expected but yeah the yellow 33 is too slow so its time to upgrade everything....

I drive the yellow one daily and the other on the weekends... But i want more power so here is my shoping list....

1. HSK Timing gear

2. Bosch 040 fuel pump

3. Adjustable fuel pressure reg

4. auto meter gadge for fuel pressure reg

5. new fuel hose 3 metres (be in next week)

6. King springs lowered 1 inch front & rear

7. Bilstein shocks front and rear (be in next week)

8. timing belt (be in next week)

9. Water pump (thought i may as well while im there)

10. Blitz bolt on cat back exhaust (still in to come from japan)

Now all i need is the car back from the body works and 2 days worth of fun ahead... Stay tuned as ill do a pic by pic next week....

Not a bad way to spend 3 g's in one day i reckon....

I thought id better do the exhaust finally. The dump pipe is already done just wanted a quiet ride, but now i want to join the masses with a deep note exhaust. Once the back half of the exhaust is done then ill replace the cat with a 3" unit and all will be complete for this phase of mods....

In the months to come Richard from ARE will do my intercooler and ill order the PFC. Once these are done ill upgrade the injectors again to a higher flow rate and ill seel the car with a good polish then its all over for me.... No more mods after that....

As for the other skyline i sold it and this is why im going all out on the yellow one....

Ok... long story short... More needs replacing...

Below is a pic of a very used cap for the rear suspension...

To make matters worse no bump stops were in the box of bits and the original ones are toasted. Whats even worse again is that the original springs were that badlly rusted that they have stuffed the ruber mounts...

I did however get the fuel pump in (with difficulty) and the fuel pressure reg. My gf's father made a very trick bracket to fit the pfr (check pic below). We made a template so if anyone wants one then just PM me and it can be done.

So the last picture is where we finished the day. Have not started with the cam belt or timing gear yet. But now the idler bearing needs to be done. So ill have to hunt allot of parts tommorrow (damn it)....

Just a quickie on the 040 pump. Be aware that if you jam the pump in to the tank you will end up touching the wall of the tank and there fore get vibration. So you need to cut the bottom of the bracket off. (Do not use zip ties as they will simple rub and vibrate until they break. If this happens you run the rish of blowing your car up. Remember the terminals are exposed so you have to be very carefull.

Below is a pic of the finished pump. Be sure to place it as low in the tank as possible or you will run out of fuel at a 1/4 of a tank if you run it in the stock position due to no pick up line on the 040.... The whole base of th pump is the pickup. Also you will not be able to fit the pump bracket back in its original position on the side wall of the tank properly. You will only get 3/4 of the bracket into its slot (but this is enough).

I did also run a new relay for my a/c fan as the circuit died and i had warm ac with out the fan running. This was fun to find the compressor wire trust me.

Also its worth noting... Yes the original shocks are NISMO ones and yes i had to cut one.... Bastard was rusted on the top so bad that we could not save it.... Also in the bin is whast left of the shock dust covers.... Not much....

Bugger cause the shocks were still good... Just painted over (idiots) :chairshot

So tommorrow i will be putting the suspension back in 1" lowered all round. Hopefully i will be able to track down bump stops and other nessary bits...

http://members.optusnet.com.au/reneecolin/1

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So most of its in now. The new suspension is awsome. The ride is not as responsive as before in terms of braking but the steering is far more progressive. The bumps are not as bumpy and the squeks are gone.

The fuel pressure reg and 040 pump has filled the hole at 4500rpm and now pulls like it should. The timing gear, water pump and belt will have to wait til this weekend now. As i ran out of time. It took ages to find bump stops to suit and i had to pay top dollar for them as i was despirate to finish the job monday.

Very very happy with the outcome and once again found the fpr to be the best bucks spent.

NOTE: Also tested new mods and suspension with g-tech and shaved 0.8 secdonds off the 0-100 time... So grip is good.... LOL

Just finished the HKS Timing gear....

Lucky i bought a water pump and timing belt also. The water pump had major movement in the shaft and had never noticed it before. Also the timing belt was starting to perish at 70k. So now its in what the verdict.

Well i set the exhaust cam gear to 4 deg retarded as sydney kid suggested.

Went for a spin. Instandlly i noticed a drop in power (rwkw) however it has picked up heaps of low end torque and its great through the mid range now. Just lost some top end. But for a daily driver top end is nothing. So i am somewhat impressed with the gain down low (heaps smoother) but a little un-impressed with the loss of power. I didnt even need to use the g-tech to tell the difference.

Next weekend im going to set it back to 2 deg retarded and see what happens. Hopefully i can find a nice ballance. However even at 4 deg retarded its like a 1/4 of a tooth out from normal so its such a minute adjustment and was hard to keep the cam still while setting the timing gear. So im now thinking that infact 4 degres has done nothing. Cause the cam belt has not even gone around another tooth on the cam belt. Therefore its not retarded at all????

Im going to have a chat to a few mates tommorrow cause i am now thinking that all we have done in this exercise it tighten the belt inbetween the 2 cams....

But there was a slight difference in performance so im confused now....

man, can't believe how shagged your old shocks were in a car that age, and they installed aftermarket, so probably a couple of years after the car was made.

good work on the 040.. bit of a weird design that one with the flat feed. So did you get it to feeding right at the bottom of thank via modification of the standard bracket?

Just a question on the shock dust boots - where did you find replacements?

Bilsteins are definitely a massive improvement.. my car handles as nicely at 160km/hr as it does 100km/hr, and haven't even changed my springs yet.

Yeah gord... I reckon the guy in japan who used to own the car has picked up the nismo shocks and springs from a wreaked car from a snow'y area where they use salt on the roads to prevent ice. So they were completelly stuffed.

As for the 040 i cut the bottom off the standard bracket and bent the bracket slightly it does sit at the same height as the standard pumps pickup. So it will run out of fuel at the same time as the standard one would. What did you think of the bracket and install of the fpr???

Oh and i just relized i made a huge mistake when fitting the cam gear. I have not moved the cam at all. All i did was tighten the cam belt. So next weekend ill be pulling her apart again... GREAT....

Oh yeah the dust covers... Didnt bother... Fulcrum had a set but the belstein shocks are designed not to use them. So i didnt.

Oh yeah the dust covers... Didnt bother... Fulcrum had a set but the belstein shocks are designed not to use them. So i didnt.

I used the standard dust covers on mine, I would never have a high mileage road car with out dust covers. The shafts wear and top seals damage too easily to leave them exposed. We don't run dust covers on the race cars, they get cleaned after every race meeting anyway:cheers:

FPR install looks great Col.

I'm a bit worried about having no dust boots either on mine (as mine were like little calamari rings too).. even if they say 'not needed' on the box. They can't cost too much for a bit of insurance.

FPR install looks great Col.  

I'm a bit worried about having no dust boots either on mine (as mine were like little calamari rings too).. even if they say 'not needed' on the box. They can't cost too much for a bit of insurance.

Likewise. If anyone has a price (even rough) that would be good. Hope they don't require taking the shocks off :uhh:

Sorry to go a little off topic. Nice thread :D

Yeah you need to take the top cap off to put the dust covers on...

My understanding is that beilstein have a 5 year warranty on the top seal for extra re-assurance. I wont own the car for 5 years so that warranty is enough for me... Its will get stolen before then... LOL

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