Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I went down to JSA motorsport on bell st today and had a look around.

I'm looking at getting an SW20 MR2, and if I buy one through a private sale, that's about 12k, and the prices at JSA started at 15 and just went up.

Is there some kind of guarantee that I'd get with buying it from a dealer, to make it worthwhile paying the extra charge, or is it just the convenience of not having to drive out to some random place and look at the car in someones driveway that I'm paying the extra $3k for.

has anyone had any experiences with JSA?

I would have thought its fairly obvious why you are paying more: because the dealer needs to make their cut.

IIRC dealers are required to provide a 3 month warranty in Victoria, but check that. Usually they are pretty worthless anyway.

Lucien.

I would have thought its fairly obvious why you are paying more:  because the dealer needs to make their cut.

IIRC dealers are required to provide a 3 month warranty in Victoria, but check that.  Usually they are pretty worthless anyway.

Lucien.

ha, i overlooked the obvious, i completely forgot about that.

yea, im not really sure what good a 3 month warranty would be :

Advantage of buying from a dealer is my car, bought for the price of a stock r33 series 2 (2003) with more goodies than he ever knew where on it. First time i known of a deler that got ripped ;)

Advantage of buying from a dealer is my car, bought for the price of a stock r33 series 2 (2003) with more goodies than he ever knew where on it. First time i known of a deler that got ripped ;)

I'll bet the dealer made money on the sale :)

LW.

K, i payed 25g'z for a 250rwkw Series 2 skyline in 2003. Back in 2003 stock series 2's were selling for that price ;)

I'm not saying you didn't get a good deal, but do you really think the dealer made a loss? That's not how the auto industry works :)

Lucien.

Buy from private sale. But it from an enthusiast who has looked after their baby.

Dealers dont give a shit about them generally and just want a sale and to make their money on the car.

Go private sale for sure mate..

I've *heard* that some buy accident repaired vechiles and sell them for normal prices so that their margins are bigger.. but thats what i've HEARD.. I'm sure there are plenty honest ones too

I bought a car that had so much bog on the boot floor that it resembled a mountain range. Dealers will do anything to make a good profit, and so will the bloke 2 streets down. Buyer's beware and get your car professionally checked out by a mechanic with a hoist, whether the car is at a dealer or private sale. The underbody is a very good indicator of damage.

This myth is busted.

i know of sum1 that owns a caryard in melb that payed 12k for a s1 33gtst with adjustable suspension, full exhaust, rims and a few other things then sold it less than a week later for just under 20k.. just an idea on how much they buy/sell them for

I looked at 11 (no exaggeration - their yard is just around the corner from my place) r32 GTRs that graced JSA's yard earlier during the year, all of which had major dodgy repairs, and still needed further attention. Not one of those cars appealed in the slightest, even with warantee/garuntees from JSA. They were trying to tell me that if I bought from them, ALL damage/wear and tear on the car would be fixed by them first. Way dodgy.

But privatly from someone who knows the car and has looked after it well.

My 2 cents.

Cheers, Sandy.

JSA are shifty as. They sell private cars and pretend its theirs.

Selling on consignment is standard industry practice: I'm not sure what their legal obligations are though in terms of informing a purchaser as to who owns the vehicle.

Lucien.

K, i payed 25g'z for a 250rwkw Series 2 skyline in 2003. Back in 2003 stock series 2's were selling for that price  

yeah, but he probably got it for like $15k off a dealer-dealer auction or trade in.. dealer always wins :rant:

Buy from private sale. But it from an enthusiast who has looked after their baby.

Generally I'd probably agree with that, but these days I know of so many Skylines being involved in fairly major front enders that private sales are becoming risky.. they get repaired for as cheap as possible, and forsale on here a couple of months later - with no mention of the damage whatsoever for "normal" prices. Maybe its my imagination, but the amount of R33 you see / hear about that have been involved in little "dorfito" style incidents with gutters and the like is becoming larger and larger - just have a look in the "wanted" section for front end parts. I could say "never buy from anybody under the age of 22" as well - but maybe that would be a tad unfair :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...