Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I went down to JSA motorsport on bell st today and had a look around.

I'm looking at getting an SW20 MR2, and if I buy one through a private sale, that's about 12k, and the prices at JSA started at 15 and just went up.

Is there some kind of guarantee that I'd get with buying it from a dealer, to make it worthwhile paying the extra charge, or is it just the convenience of not having to drive out to some random place and look at the car in someones driveway that I'm paying the extra $3k for.

has anyone had any experiences with JSA?

I would have thought its fairly obvious why you are paying more: because the dealer needs to make their cut.

IIRC dealers are required to provide a 3 month warranty in Victoria, but check that. Usually they are pretty worthless anyway.

Lucien.

I would have thought its fairly obvious why you are paying more:  because the dealer needs to make their cut.

IIRC dealers are required to provide a 3 month warranty in Victoria, but check that.  Usually they are pretty worthless anyway.

Lucien.

ha, i overlooked the obvious, i completely forgot about that.

yea, im not really sure what good a 3 month warranty would be :

Advantage of buying from a dealer is my car, bought for the price of a stock r33 series 2 (2003) with more goodies than he ever knew where on it. First time i known of a deler that got ripped ;)

Advantage of buying from a dealer is my car, bought for the price of a stock r33 series 2 (2003) with more goodies than he ever knew where on it. First time i known of a deler that got ripped ;)

I'll bet the dealer made money on the sale :)

LW.

K, i payed 25g'z for a 250rwkw Series 2 skyline in 2003. Back in 2003 stock series 2's were selling for that price ;)

I'm not saying you didn't get a good deal, but do you really think the dealer made a loss? That's not how the auto industry works :)

Lucien.

Buy from private sale. But it from an enthusiast who has looked after their baby.

Dealers dont give a shit about them generally and just want a sale and to make their money on the car.

Go private sale for sure mate..

I've *heard* that some buy accident repaired vechiles and sell them for normal prices so that their margins are bigger.. but thats what i've HEARD.. I'm sure there are plenty honest ones too

I bought a car that had so much bog on the boot floor that it resembled a mountain range. Dealers will do anything to make a good profit, and so will the bloke 2 streets down. Buyer's beware and get your car professionally checked out by a mechanic with a hoist, whether the car is at a dealer or private sale. The underbody is a very good indicator of damage.

This myth is busted.

i know of sum1 that owns a caryard in melb that payed 12k for a s1 33gtst with adjustable suspension, full exhaust, rims and a few other things then sold it less than a week later for just under 20k.. just an idea on how much they buy/sell them for

I looked at 11 (no exaggeration - their yard is just around the corner from my place) r32 GTRs that graced JSA's yard earlier during the year, all of which had major dodgy repairs, and still needed further attention. Not one of those cars appealed in the slightest, even with warantee/garuntees from JSA. They were trying to tell me that if I bought from them, ALL damage/wear and tear on the car would be fixed by them first. Way dodgy.

But privatly from someone who knows the car and has looked after it well.

My 2 cents.

Cheers, Sandy.

JSA are shifty as. They sell private cars and pretend its theirs.

Selling on consignment is standard industry practice: I'm not sure what their legal obligations are though in terms of informing a purchaser as to who owns the vehicle.

Lucien.

K, i payed 25g'z for a 250rwkw Series 2 skyline in 2003. Back in 2003 stock series 2's were selling for that price  

yeah, but he probably got it for like $15k off a dealer-dealer auction or trade in.. dealer always wins :rant:

Buy from private sale. But it from an enthusiast who has looked after their baby.

Generally I'd probably agree with that, but these days I know of so many Skylines being involved in fairly major front enders that private sales are becoming risky.. they get repaired for as cheap as possible, and forsale on here a couple of months later - with no mention of the damage whatsoever for "normal" prices. Maybe its my imagination, but the amount of R33 you see / hear about that have been involved in little "dorfito" style incidents with gutters and the like is becoming larger and larger - just have a look in the "wanted" section for front end parts. I could say "never buy from anybody under the age of 22" as well - but maybe that would be a tad unfair :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...