Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, just interested in what sort of speeds you were getting up to, does your car have the M-type(4 piston ft. brakes/ 2 piston Rrs.)?

I thought the RB74 pads were supposed to be pretty good. I have Bendix ultimates and they work really well, been to QLD raceway a couple of times and no fade from pads, got a spongy feeling (brakes still worked ok tho)which I think was either due to rubber brakelines expanding &/or firewall flexing. I was driving the car as hard as I could - 72 sec on short course, about 11 secs slower than a GT3...lol

I even used std nissan pads on the old lakeside raceway track and had no fade at all, coming from 190km/hr down to about 80 km/hr with maximum braking and abs doings its thing , and still had no fade, doing 68-70 sec laps.

if you dont have the m-type brakes then maybe a caliper upgrade would be helpful in being able to apply more pressure to the rotors when you are braking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1460982
Share on other sites

how do u mean fail? as in they started fading? or they lost power completely.

also check that your rotors have good thickness, and no problems with master cylinder.

also, i can't remember if it's dot 5.2 or dot 5 fluid that you aren't ment to use without full flush. but might wanna look into that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1461335
Share on other sites

What is the difference between EBC Yellow stuff & EBC Green Stuff? I have EBC green stuff and they are too hard IMO. They make a terible sound like they are grinding away my disks...

EBC Yellow Stuff - and they rock. Work well from cold and no fade at all when scorching. Produced over here in UK.

Just about to fit DBA 6x6 wiper slot discs in place of the knackered discs I'm running at the mo. Should be even better then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1461404
Share on other sites

Unusual choice - most people don't bother with RB74's on the rears. Certainly race brakes don't recommend it. You don't need them there & they will only squeal & generally give you the sh!ts. Something cheaper with similar friction coefficients is usually adequate.

I have had only good experiences with the RB74 pads - but I may be able to help a bit further if you clarify what you mean by fail. They don't fade as such - it is just that the wear rate goes up markedly when they get really hot.

If you want a list of pad types, their friction coefficients & temperature ranges have a look at the current issue of RACE magazine. It has a silver Datto 260Z on the cover.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1461457
Share on other sites

who make these RB74 pads? I have heard only good things about them..

Unusual choice - most people don't bother with RB74's on the rears. Certainly race brakes don't recommend it. You don't need them there & they will only squeal & generally give you the sh!ts. Something cheaper with similar friction coefficients is usually adequate.

I have had only good experiences with the RB74 pads - but I may be able to help a bit further if you clarify what you mean by fail. They don't fade as such - it is just that the wear rate goes up markedly when they get really hot.

If you want a list of pad types, their friction coefficients & temperature ranges have a look at the current issue of RACE magazine. It has a silver Datto 260Z on the cover.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1461463
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys.

I have just come back from Race Brakes and they have assesed the pads and beleive that they have failed due to overheating. A full flush was done when the pads were installed so they ruled out the brake fluid. Whit haze on outer edges of pads this meaning pads have exceded there temperature limit, they should no.

They have recommended Ferodo 3000

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1461768
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys.

I have just come back from Race Brakes and they have assesed the pads and beleive that they have failed due to overheating. A full flush was done when the pads were installed so they ruled out the brake fluid. Whit haze on outer edges of pads this meaning pads have exceded there temperature limit, they should no.

They have recommended Ferodo 3000

A number of people have "graduated" from RB74's to the Ferodo pads. Will be interested in how you get on with them.

Can you post up a shot of the shot pads? I think a number of people will be interested in seeing them.

Also, how did the discs stand up?

White haze is interesting. I occasionally suffer from a red haze when really angry and a purple one when Hendrix or Groove Armada is on the stereo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1461849
Share on other sites

Had my first track day last weekend all went well except for the brakes. After 6 laps brakes decided to fail.  Iam using dot 5 fluid and have RB74 all round. What pads are you guys using as i think i might need some pads that will be able to take more punishment.

What track were you driving around, what tyres were you using and what car mods have you got. There arent any Sydney tracks that shoudl bother a Skyliens std brakes with RB74s unless you have some serious power.

All for using DS3000s but they are fairly expensive and if you are using them day to day they will squeal their asses off:( ...and of course the more hardcore the brake compund you begin to run the more aggressive on the rotor they typically are:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1462740
Share on other sites

I found that with the EBC greenstuff that they were not as good as I would have liked when cold.. eg 10min @ 100kph then try and stop in a hurry. I would guess that the yellowstuff would be worse in this regard... something to keep in mind for street use. I switched to Pagid Rs4-2 and found them to be much better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1463373
Share on other sites

I have gone with RB74s, they should arive today. I will fit them on the weekend and see how they go. They must be better then the EBC Green Stuff breakes I have been using.

To anyone using new pads on the track. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU BED THEM IN ON THE ROAD BEFORE YOU GET NEAR THE TRACK. Get some temperature in them on the street & then allow them to cool off gently. Don't wait for the morning warmup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1463669
Share on other sites

LOL... i did them at the track, if your willing to waste a session then there is no better place to get plenty of pad on those rotors:)

Prob is these days there arent any real practice days at Vic tracks, they all seem to be sprints so dont want to waste a tiemd session (4 laps) when you may only get 12 laps all day:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1463688
Share on other sites

Im pretty sure the colours of the EBC pad range represent the different compound of materials they use therefore withstanding different loads and temps for different applications ie. road,road/track and track.

There are a number of different parameters you need to be aware of when choosing brake pads:

Friction coefficient - simply the higher the number the better the retardation. 0.45 is a good number, anything higher a bonus. Make sure you have a good balance front to rear.

Working temp range - If you are using them both on the road & on the track they need to work from 0 degrees up. You don't want to run the next doors kids over do you? Do you? Equally if the upper limit is in the 650 degrees range be aware that much over this will really start to hurt your rotors. Make sure you have a good balance front to rear, remember the fronts will get hotter.

Hardness - The more agressive the pad the more wear on your rotors. Very difficult to get a straight answer from the shops on this. Usually best to rely on word of mouth.

Noise - some pads will squeal like a stuck pig. Varies from car to car & from pad to pad. Occasionally a good pasting makes it go away for a time. Sometimes not.

Cost - Obvious really.

With regards to EBC pads (& forum rules about -ve comments) check their friction coefficients & prices.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80324-brake-pads/#findComment-1463776
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...