First set of turbo's

[Beer Baron]

TURBINE:

Wheel = 53.85mm

Exducer = 42.40 (??? Can someone confirm?)

Trim = 62

A/R = 0.64

COMPRESSOR:

Trim = 56

Inducer = 44.46

Exducer = 59.41

A/R = 0.42

TURBINE:

Wheel = 53.85mm

Exduce = 42.40

Trim = 62

A/R = 0.64

COMPRESSOR:

Trim = 55

Inducer = 44.59

Exducer = 60

A/R = 0.42

looking at these figures, does anyone have the same list of specs for the R34 GTR N1 ball bearing turbos. I would like to see how the three stack up?

[R32 TT]

looking at these figures, does anyone have the same list of specs for the R34 GTR N1 ball bearing turbos. I would like to see how the three stack up?

yeah! Me too! (my bet is they're all the same)

[lwells]

Your wish is my.. something. Thanks to GTR R32.

TURBINE:

Inducer = 53.85 mm

Exducer = 42.4 mm

Trim = 62

A/R = 0.64

COMPRESSOR:

Trim = 55

Inducer = 44.57

Exducer = 60.1

A/R = 0.60

Larger A/R on [edit] intake side.

[Beer Baron]

you mean on intake side? ie .60 vs .42.

That's what i was trying to get at as haveing looked at a set of R34N1s the other day i noticed that it has .42 stamped inside the compresor outlet, but another set of R34N1s i've seen has .60 stamped on the outside of the comp cover. So could there be two configs of R34 N1s? Both I've checked were ball bearing, both had the split in the turbine housing seperating the wastegate flow from the turbine flow. Both also had .64 A/R stamped on the exhaust housing. interesting.

edit: also given that A/R is not a size as such (it's a ratio) how much difference in flow/horsepower potential is there between the .60 version and the .42?

[lwells]

you mean on intake side? ie .60 vs .42.

Yes

i noticed that it has .42 stamped inside the compresor outlet, but another set of R34N1s i've seen has .60 stamped on the outside of the comp cover. So could there be two configs of R34 N1s?

I have heard of this too, but never seen it with my own eyes. Maybe someone can clear this up.

[Beer Baron]

yeah it's a mystery to me. I have definately seen both. the .42 ones are often mistaken for .60 as people don't look inside the housing for the A/R. where as the .60 ones are clearly marked on the cover. I would love to know what the deal is there, and also what the power potential of the two variants is?

edit: also the inducer and exducer measurements in the above 34 N1 spec are the same as (within .2mm) the SS and the -7s yet they quote a .60 A/R.

[Tommyk]

I have the compressor map for the elusive -5 garrett turbo.

If anyone is interested. I'm not really meant to be distributing this

[lwells]

Bump. R32 TT: How's it all going?

[R32 TT]

Bump.  R32 TT:  How's it all going?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

G'day there Lucien,

Its all not going too well mate actually.

Got the car back together, had a few issues trying to tune it using MAP sensor only and so it was run well on the rich side to be 'safe'. Had it on the road just a couple of days and went down the Collie racetrack. Did only a handful of laps and boom.. blue smoke out the back and loss of power...

It would appear after a compression test that I have lost cylinder number 2.

Interestingly, since I broke the front stock turbo (which is what started this whole damn thing), and number 2 is directly in-line with it (ie the middle cylinder of the front 3), it will be interesting to get the motor apart and see if ceramic has made its way into the engine at all...

So, looks like I am off the road for quite some time. The bills getting it this far have been high enough. Doing an engine rebuild is just not affordable at the moment...

[Triskillion]

i was watching one of those tuning DVD's and with a r33 gtr the guy tuned it with race fuel, higher boost, low psi in tyres, some suspension (rear sway bar or something i cant remmeber) and did a high 11. something like 250kw

[gtrhappydays]

G'day there Lucien,

Its all not going too well mate actually.

Got the car back together, had a few issues trying to tune it using MAP sensor only and so it was run well on the rich side to be 'safe'. Had it on the road just a couple of days and went down the Collie racetrack. Did only a handful of laps and boom.. blue smoke out the back and loss of power...

It would appear after a compression test that I have lost cylinder number 2.

Interestingly, since I broke the front stock turbo (which is what started this whole damn thing), and number 2 is directly in-line with it (ie the middle cylinder of the front 3), it will be interesting to get the motor apart and see if ceramic has made its way into the engine at all...

So, looks like I am off the road for quite some time. The bills getting it this far have been high enough. Doing an engine rebuild is just not affordable at the moment...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[steve_gts4]

does anyone know what boost level the actuators are set to on the 707160 series turbos?

i just got a pair of 707160-7's and it would be useful to know

[R32 TT]

does anyone know what boost level the actuators are set to on the 707160 series turbos?

i just got a pair of 707160-7's and it would be useful to know

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi mate, mine were set at 8 pounds from factory. We reset them to 16.

[Tommyk]

Mine were set to 0.84 kg/cm^2

[lwells]

Interestingly, since I broke the front stock turbo (which is what started this whole damn thing), and number 2 is directly in-line with it (ie the middle cylinder of the front 3), it will be interesting to get the motor apart and see if ceramic has made its way into the engine at all...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Mate,

Did you ever determine if ceramic dust was the culprit?

[R32 TT]

Hi Mate,

Did you ever determine if ceramic dust was the culprit?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi there Lucien,

Actually I got the motor out over the break and its just been sitting there. Haven't got the head off yet - but will soon. I am making a "shopping list" at the moment... for the full rebuild...

<_<

[tk80]

anyone know the max boost that can be run on the 707160-5's?.....i've heard the actuators are only good for 1 bar.

if so, how much to upgrade the actuators?

[Tommyk]

you dont need to upgrade the actuators. Simply get a boost controller and bleed air off ?

[R32 TT]

you dont need to upgrade the actuators. Simply get a boost controller and bleed air off ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

True, but its better to set the actuators as close as possible to the boost you are intending to run. It will build boost quicker than a boost controller detecting, compensating etc..

[Guest Mashrock]

r34 n1's and some cams you'll be sweet