Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just fitted GT2560rs, and Greddy / Trust Dumps and front pipe, this was matched to my existing 3" Cat back Jasma exhaust and Standard CAT.

The car still has the standard ECU, and is running very rich over 5000rpm (low 10AFRs)

After picking car up from dyno yesterday it ran like bit of a dog on the way home, as if plugs were fouling as it was put under load (which would confirm what dyno printout suggests), but later that night it was breaking down real bad and did'nt clear up at all, I had a top speed of about 60kmh, and after a little while the little 'Exhaust temp sensor light' came on.

A quick check underneath the car revealled, a huge amount of heat from the Cat.

Has the Cat melted...?

Would retaining the standard Cat have caused my initial AFR problems in the first place, and would fitment of HiFlow Cat solve it?

I thought the standard ECU would have coped better with fairly minor Turbo and exhaust upgrade...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80704-r32gtr-exhaust-temp-sensor-light/
Share on other sites

running very rich = shitload of unburnt fuel comin out through the cat = burnt through cat.

The cats probably carked it as a result of the turbo upgrade.

First thing id suggest is get the damn thing tuned. Thos turbos will have completely different response and power figures compared to stock.

I am fitting these turbos also, and as a result, with the expected power figures, am upgrading my injectors and my AFM's. I should probably also upgrade my fuel pump.

So yes, before you go driving that thing around any further with a clogged up cat, get it tuned. If you get a new hiflow cat you will probably melt that through also :)

Not really what I wanted to hear... :)

I wanted to build HP up on this car slowly (to a max of 450rwHP) so as I could enjoy each HP increase & not get bored to quickly with it, but if I fit PFC as it appears I will need to, i may as well then fit the larger injectors cam gears and AFM's so as not to have PFC retuned again and again... :)

I had a few ignition problems with my new setup and it dropped a cylinder on me a few times and I had the same rough running (rich as hell).

My CAT overheat light also popped up a few times as well. When it all got sorted and went back on the dyno it struggled to make the same power and needed 5psi more boost to match the same outright power but was still down on average power.

The cause was found to be a literally melted shut cat.

Okay......since the first post I have driven to an Exhaust shop and had them remove old Cat....turns out it was fine, and not melted at all.

(although they did have to use an OXY to get it off, so I was'nt a wuss after all for not removing it myself! :P )

I now have a Decat pipe fitted retaining the exhaust temp sensor.

Car still ran like shit, missing, felt like plugs were fouling, would'nt really go over 60kmh.

Replaced plugs today, Old plugs were'nt in bad nick at all (HKS items) and seem to be burning well, except plugs 4 & 5 which were still a bit wet with fuel.

New plugs fitted start car, runs exactly the same straight up as it did before....ie not running on all cylinders.

So what next 'coil packs'...?

and what is the best way to check they are working on a GTR?

Initially I would have suggested the cat had broken up. I had one do it once and it blocked the rear part of the cat up.

Buy six short plug leads, unscrew the coil packs and connect to the plugs using the leads. As it's running carefully unplug each one to isolate the crappy coil if one is bad. Try not to get zapped.

Buy six short plug leads, unscrew the coil packs and connect to the plugs using the leads. As it's running carefully unplug each one to isolate the crappy coil if one is bad. Try not to get zapped.

Good idea, I was wondering how i'd get the length out of the coil packs to check for spark...simple really :P

hey psi if u find a coil not workin then switch the plug from another one to it and try it to see if its the coil, or it might be the igniter pack on the back of the centre coil cover, as mine recently shit itself suddenly and it would misfire and then run fine and then run like shit, and really weird, until i got a second one to try and it worked perfecto, if u want to try one i can lend you mine to test if u like, i live north of river (near joondalup)

hope it helps :P

cheers

Brad

no stock computers go like this: more air flow, more fuel and it's not a linear increase either so the more airflow you get the amount of fuel being dumped in grows exponentialy.

Okay, seems I have stumbled (whoops I mean 'Found') the problem :rofl:

During the process of checking the coil packs today i removed the Rocker cover panel to get to them (as you do) and happened to notice the plug on the 'inside' which plugs into the ignitor (?) was very loose, and when I attempted to reconnect it did'nt really seem to click in very well and is infact still a bit loose.

But I restarted the car like that...and what do you know, purrs like a kitten!

Took it for a drive around some of the backroads around here and pulls well thru all the gears.

Bloody cars!.....the problem was totally unrelated to all recent work really, but as it happened straight after dyno it had me thinking it was a fueling issue!

Thanks for all the help guys.... :)

Now off to wash it so I can 'finally' check out these bigger turbos etc :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...