Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so the GTR owners have a thread like this, so i thought i'd make up one for us ones that drive gts-t's n gt-t's ( older skyline owners R31 n such can post to ).

k so i've spent roughly.... close to 30 thousand on my car, thats a fair bit of money lol, how much have the rest of you spent to date, or plan on spending in the future???

car: '94 R33 Gts-t..

where the money went.....

$14,500 purchase price,

$7,000 smash repair bill

$1,200 Veilside kit....}

$2,500 full re-spray..} in progress

and theres more to come in the future... :D

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

PFC: 750

Tuning: 450

Bodykit: 800 on top of selling my old kit

Cat and forward sections of exhaust: 1000

Front mount: 1100

Stereo: 1300

Alarm: 850

Rims: 1200 on top of selling the rims my car came with

Strut brace: 130

Gauges & rsm: 800

Tinting: 200

Cam gear: 130

Suspension: 550

Upgraded fuel pump Bosch 040: 230

GFB Hybrid BOV : 150

Cold air box: 120

TOTAL: 9760... OOoppss.. LOL... Still more to come :) This is just on modifications. This doesnt include petrol expenses, oil changes etc...

This thread was created just to rub it in for the GTR guys right? :)

GTR thread: 20k, 15k, 7k, 12k,

GTS-t thread: 2k, 2k, 2k  

LOL

lol nah i was just curious to see if alot of gtst owners and such spend alota money on there car as well, although it would suck being a GTR owner and reading this lol.

haha i like the way alot of you say a figure and then add ( so far ) to the end of it lol, i should proly bring it up again in a year or two and then maybe we'd be up to the GTR figures ;).

Wheels - $2500

Susp - $3500

BC - $300

POD - $100

Zorst - $1200

Stereo - $7000

Brakes - $700

Fansy stuff - $1000

Purchase price - $19000

Total - $35300...........DAMN! and i still have sh!t loads to go.. ;) cars are expensive.

Car - $21K

First Batch of mods - $13K (FMIC, Hi Flow turbo, Injectors, ECU, Tune, Front/Dump, cat, etc)

Blown Motor

Second Batch of Mods - Engine Rebuild $20K (included new everything - bulletproof)

New Turbo & manifold - $3K

New ECU $1400

Greddy Plennum - $1.2K

Buddy Club Wheels - $2K

TIEN Suspension - $1.2K

Clutch - $650

New Springs - $450

Oil Cooler, Thermostat, lines - $1K

Bigger FMIC - $1600

Sound System $1K

Semi Slicks - $1100

Terrific waste of money ;)

Purchased mine 5 years ago and it owes me close to 50k including purchase price and labour for installed parts

Same here :P and i am still getting more mods in the next few weeks. Long engine is still std., for now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...