Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the place where i bought my car has done a number of dodgy things while compliancing it...using silican on the fuel cap is one of them...after the fuel ate the silican away, the inlet peice is now loose and i could probably pull it out if i try. my car hisses when it is warm or if i have been driving for a while. i was told that it shouldnt do that, that there should be a little hole somewhere as a release. is this right?

what to do? i was told seleys needit would stop the leak...but it sounds like i need to make another leak!!!!?:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8126-fuel-tank-leaking/
Share on other sites

Depends, petrol tends to eat away at anything you put in to plug any leak.. Its a difficult one to fix. You can buy this "petrol tank repair" gunk from like Repco which is like putty stuff - I found however the best stuff was the other type which was a two colour strip and you had to kneed it together (same brand).

What is the exact problem? Its not clear exactly from your description? The part where you stick the petrol spout into is wiggling around? or there is a crack in the pipe? or a crack in the cap?

I had the problem in an old car with a hole in the petrol tank... had to do it time and time again until eventually I fixed it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8126-fuel-tank-leaking/#findComment-118175
Share on other sites

is ur feul cp very tight?? i mean when i close mine .. i close it to the click and it keeps clickin if i keep rotating it .. but it doesn't feel very tight at all .. and to open it ... i don't have to use much force it all ... opens very easily ... and i dont' think it gives a very loud ppppssssssseetttt noise at all ... as pva puts it ... is there something wrong??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8126-fuel-tank-leaking/#findComment-118381
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

it's kindof a safety thing in the fuel cap, so you don't over tighten it. but the rubber seal around the cap is tight enough to seal any leaks... if they're still good.

I get a loud phsssst when opening the fuel cap when it's about 1/4 left. Nothing wrong I guess, as all my previous cars did the same... less phssst noise if you open it up when they're still full or halfway...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8126-fuel-tank-leaking/#findComment-171069
Share on other sites

I know what you mean exactly.

i have the same problem with mine i just brought.

when hot or over 1/4 full it just leaks fuel out the edges, not heaps though barely noticable apart from the dirt that sticks to it and the smell

It's something to do with the Unleaded Breather thing.

Very common problem so i'm told!

I'm looking to fix mine aswell as the smell get's me high as a kite sometimes.

If ya wanna do halvies in a tub of that goop stuff let me know cause i'll be fixing it hopefully this week.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8126-fuel-tank-leaking/#findComment-171620
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

R31Nismoid: Did you get it fixed with that stuff from Repco? I've just noticed some fuel leaking out the edges of my tank recently and don't remember hearing a noise opening the fuel cap today. I thought it was because of the new Bosch pump I had put in as it has only just started leaking, but maybe some seals have worn out...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8126-fuel-tank-leaking/#findComment-191566
Share on other sites

well i got round to "sealing" it with some selleys knead-it...sealled it alright...about a month ago when it was 40deg. i drove to ballarat...3/4 way there my car started making a horrible noise. hard to explain, but it scared the shit out of me. when i got to ballarat, i went to fill up. when i opened the cap there was so much pressure built up in there it fizzed and hissed for about a minute or two!!! it sounded like the fuel was boiling!!! the inlet flap was hot too, could hardly touch!! i got scared, thought it was gonna blow up, so i put the cap on after it calmed down a bit. 5 min later i took the cap off again, and it hissed and fizzed like before! i ended up driving around with the cap on half way so it leaked but didnt build up pressure.

that was the only time it has done that since, but it hasnt been that hot since then either. can an extra 5 - 10 deg. do that to a fuel tank...(maybe under pressure?) is it as dangerous as it sounded? or am i worried about nothing? how do i fix?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8126-fuel-tank-leaking/#findComment-191611
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...