Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am not sure if this topic has been covered before. I'm just wondering how's the skyline on long trips on the freeway like from Melbourne - Sydney and Sydney - brisbane...Does the skyline feel stable still or getting shaky?

At 110km/h, how high does it rev and how's the fuel consumption like? I know the fuel consumption thread has been covered before, please dont flame me...thanks for your help.

Cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81399-skyline-driving-on-long-trips/
Share on other sites

actually i also wouldnt mind hearing answers 2 that coz im goin from melbourne-sydney at end of the yr for a week and im drivin my R33 gts-t up there.

btw fuel consumption is always gonna be high, i already know that part :P

well yesterday i finished a SyD-Snowy-Syd trip yesterday

R32 GTR

@ 110-120 it sits under 4000 rpm in 5th gear id say around 3700ish rpm

fuel consumption isnt that bad on my car as it is tuned with power FC

and i do around 550kms per tank which is a lot. for my car

all in all i filled up 3times and i still have more than half a tank of fuel left.

during this whole trip i covered over a 1000kays

my r33 gtst from syd to Bris vagis was shit lots of fuel, but i dont think i have standard injectors and only other normal mods, i got about 350 maybe 400 ks to a tank of bp, was sitting in 5 th 120 3,700 rpm

i do a lot of long distance trips in my r33 gtst, its about 3000rpm at 110km/h and i'm about the same as blitz around 600kms per tank....although mine is pretty stock, just pod and exhaust

Nice smooth ride, although once again stock shocks probably help

i do a lot of long distance trips in my r33 gtst, its about 3000rpm at 110km/h and i'm about the same as blitz around 600kms per tank....although mine is pretty stock, just pod and exhaust

Nice smooth ride, although once again stock shocks probably help

stock shocks would make it a nice ride, as i have got olims and they are as hard as all shit

i just came back from sydney yesterday. Was a nice trip got 650-700km/ tank (r33 non turbo) car is a bit shaky when you get over 120km/hr and is a bit noisy but on the whole quite comfortable. But there's this rattle in the interior just to the right of the windscreen (in a panel) shitted me up the wall.

skylines love long drives, they feel much more at home on the freeway/hills than puttering around town. mine has a fairly noisy exhaust but the 33s have a lot of sound deadening so its no problem. i can honestly say its the best car ive ever owned for open road driving, no shortage of power on the steep hills either :rofl:

In my R32 GTR I managed 660km's / tank driving from Melbourne to Bowral - probably would have made it further if it was not for those damn hills at the end of the trip. Was specifically trying to make it on one tank so I was watching my throttle sitting on 100 all the way. Pretty good considering my o2 sensors are probably nearing the end of their life.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...