Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hope this helps a few people out there in regards to nice sounding legal and powerful exhaust system .after alot of trial error with mufflers and resonator i have assembled a nice sounding exhaust it comprises of 2 1/4 pipe one 18'' expansion chamber coby muffler fitted where the cat was,as for u guys in oz fitt a shorter resonator 16'' expansion chamber type next in line with cat . run straight pipe 2 1/4 all the way up to the rear of car then either a large body straight through twin tip 2.5'' muffler or a 16'' straight through a 2.5'' core come out at 4'' with a provision for silencer use the silencer, give you enough backpressure to help with scavenge of exhaust gasses and prevents burnt exhaust valves still sound deep at idle and crisp sounding at mid to high revs also run coby extractors make a huge difference slightly in low rev and very noticable in mid to high revs. only adjustment had to do was idle air bleed scew adjustment to give smooth idle due to better flowing exhaust i have found it to have more torque and quicker acceleration .i havent dyno to show figures but works well for me and im very fussy when comes to making cars go well and sound well .also if u use a straight through type muffler comeing out 4 '' make sure u use silencer other wise it is extremely loud

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81513-a-nice-sounding-exhaust-for-na/
Share on other sites

All I got is the standard bore pipe (2" I think) headers and three coby's all about 15" long. The car has made 120rwkw on the dyno with this set up, how ever she only ran 108rwkw the other day :confused:

Anywho, I think the important thing is to avoid using stainless anything on the system as this resonates badly with the N/A's.

Also, a turn-down or dump pipe at the end will keep the bark away too.

I get many comments on how good it sounds :D yay!

How about a 3" straight pipe? it will sound very mean. Probably be about 110 db.

i think 3'' a bit extreme.your dead right it would be very load it would sound like youre exhaust fell off.also you would loose a heap of power down low,only turbos modified could run that size and sound good,the turbo helps push the exhaust gas out,wear as n/a need a certain amount back pressure and smaller pipe size create scavenging to draw exhaust gas out and give good low down throttle responce .

can't have a quiet exhaust which gives good power. Plain and simple.

I'm gettin a 3" turbo back exhaust chucked on an ECCS RB20'd R31 GTS-x, won't be too bad :D

If you want lower pitched sounds then get mild steel, the thickness/density etc absorbs higher frequency sounds better.

ive got 2 1/4 " pipes 1 x 18 " muffler and the cat converter and extractors . sounds deep at idle up to a great screaming noise at peak revs ,( yeah bit hard to describe exhaust sounds . its a bit loud overall , but tolerable

mine used to run a modified 2 1/2" collector off the coby extractors, straight through to a 2 1/2" 16" long cannon no cat... sounded unreal!! though any drive longer then 1/2 an hour resulted in headaches..

i have being told by a few exhaust shops that you can have two identical models of car fit the same identical exhaust and they could sound totally different,i assume that vairables in engine build,machineing etc could be the cause of that.as for anyone that fits a 3'' system on a n/a car is wasteing alot of money,i no it looks good and at idle sounds good but the power loss at low to mid range is quite bad also take into consideration of fuel waste due to haveing to push down further on the accelerator to make up for power loss, trust me i have being there and tried that.best size pipe i believe is 2 1/2 for rb25 and for rb20 is 2 1/4 for low drone note at 50khm,i no some people like the car loud it draws attention but here in nz it draws the attention eg.police.these skylines are very hard cars to get a good sounding system and good power range without a bit loss in either of these factors its alot of trial error until you build up a system,even now im considering adding another resonator with expansion chamber i have noticed a bit of a loss power low down on hills

  • 14 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
×
×
  • Create New...