Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi.

Just bought a dr30 project car minus motor/gearbox

When I eventually buy a fj20 and box, I'm throwing up the Idea of moving the motor back closer to the firewall... Problem is When nissan first designed the r30 I don't think they were thinking of installing an fj20, because the brake master cylinder and design of the inlet monifold prevents the engine from being mounted any closer than about 20c.m away from the firewall.

It would be possible to get a cutom intake made up but that costs$$$ and the design of the standard FJ inlet is meant to be fairly power productive with some light

touch ups.

The only other option I can think of is relocating and/or modyfying the cylinder and pedal box....

Any info or idea's greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82053-dr30-engine-relocation/
Share on other sites

Maybe have a look at the gibson cars from when they raced see if you can get an ideas?? Maybe your only other option is to have remote resevoirs on the master cylinder ala FJ20 - 1600 styles??? I don't think Nissan would've put the motor there though if it was such a hinderance to the cars handling...

Yeah,as Boof said,remote booster/master cyl and most likely clutch master as well. You'll also have to make decent crossmember mods to sit the FJ further back,and also gearbox x-member too.Ask me how I know :cheers:

Hey OHR-30t, I've been through ur whole website... How long until the beast is on the road?

Before I start to get to serious (havent got the FJ yet wich will probably help)

do you have any idea how much this is going too cost?... Incl. modified sump, engine mounts and tailshaft and the other things you've mentioned.

I'm also contemplating doing a r31/bluebird front end conversion wich I've seen has been discussed in fair amount of detail in this forum....

I have'nt got too much mechanical expertise so I will probably be paying a workshop to do moat of the work..... Has anyone got Idea's on price$$ to get both these conversions done?

I have'nt got too much mechanical expertise so I will probably be paying a workshop to do moat of the work..... Has anyone got Idea's on price$$ to get both these conversions done?

I Dont really have all that much experience with the mechanical side of things but seem to make do with it all. When ya sit down and have a look at how it all fits together you really get a sense of what will and wont work.

R32 GTST master/booster goes bolt and much closer to the firewall , works for RB20/25/30DET conversions . Moving the 4 cylinder back creates handling issues rather than solving them . Remember , need some weight on the front tyres for steering and braking grip . The DR30 was a homologation special and Nissan got it right . The only viable reason to move the engine back slightly is to make room for a viscous hub cooling fan on the water pump as thermos are inadequate for cooling high output engines .

Cheers A .

Hey OHR-30t, I've been through ur whole website... How long until the beast is on the road? ............

As I'm sure you noticed,mine is an HR31,not an H/DR30. I had the same idea as you originally though,to move the FJ back against the firewall to mate up with the original RB20 gearbox,and discovered that I'd need all the above things, so decided against doing it.I've now moved the gearbox forward to meet the motor,after modifying the box,crossmember,etc. Should be back on the road late this year sometime.

If you can't do much of the work yourself,then you'll be looking at a pretty large bill to get it all done :rofl: Large as in many thousands....

Good to see something different but why an FJ20 when an RB30 falls in ? The RB30 bottom end + RB25DE head is too easy and not that expensive if you shop around . Not flameing you but I could not resist the temptation of a 50% increase in capacity and torque especially when it bolts in . The RB30E is the 186 red motor when it comes to buying rebuild bits .

Good luck with your project .

putting a 3L engine in opens a whole new can of worms, any reason you want to move the engine back??

I was just joking with the rb conversion.. just stirring s*#t..... FJ's are better though :)

The car is headed for drift and I've been l led to believe that weight distribution/ balance is very important.... I.e SR20's into laurels and cefiro's

But what's been mentioned on this thread it possibly makes more sense to work around the problem than just creating more for minamal (if any) gain.

I must have missed something here , HR31's come with RB20DET's do they not ?

If so RB30's (in DOHC form) bolt straight up to the gearbox and engine mounts this is easy .

I detect that the love affair with the FJ20ET is alive and well which is OK but there are other capable engines out there as well . I just like the idea of 182 cubic inches compared to 122 cubic inches . They are far cheaper to buy/rebuild/maintain than a really flying FJ20 and in delux form (RB26 top end) they are more than capable of walking all over any FJ20 in any form .

Your call but as food for thought it would have been interesting to see the Grp A spec DR30's take on the GRP A R31 GTSR's , I know where my money would be .

To the moderator , how old does a Skyline have to be to class it as a classic ? Does a 1989 R32 GTST qualify .

Cheers A .

I must have missed something here , HR31's come with RB20DET's do they not ?

If so RB30's (in DOHC form) bolt straight up to the gearbox and engine mounts this is easy .  

I detect that the love affair with the FJ20ET is alive and well which is OK but there are other capable engines out there as well . I just like the idea of 182 cubic inches compared to 122 cubic inches . They are far cheaper to buy/rebuild/maintain than a really flying FJ20 and in delux form (RB26 top end) they are more than capable of walking all over any FJ20 in any form .  

Your call but as food for thought it would have been interesting to see the Grp A spec DR30's take on the GRP A R31 GTSR's , I know where my money would be....

Cheers  A .

Tisk Tisk Disco! :warning: Don't you read much on fj.com? I'm sure you've seen my progress! Yes I removed the RB20DET,and promptly disposed of it :cheers: The FJ is now bolted into place,next is gearbox x-member mods.I'm aware that you are not a fan of my turbo or engine choice,but hey - each to their own :(

How's this for food for thought then.....Imagine an GRP A spec HR31 with an FJ20 take on a GRP A DR30! I know where my money'd be then :uh-huh:

My choice of direction was for several reasons:

1. I already had the built FJ from my previous car,and not a fan of RB20's.

2. I really like the HR31 for ride quality,features,etc over the 30's.

3. Best of both worlds,in my mind. Grunt of the DR30 (FJ20) and the stlye and more refined ride and electrics of the HR31.

5. Something different.

6. Teh FJ20 can neva lose!

:(

Yeh I'll drink to that , I had a look in your site and woke up to the Pintara FJ bit .

Like you said to each there own . Most of my road miles for the last 10 years have been with two FJ20's so no mysteries here . My leaning is towards higher capacity engines because they do it effortlessly is milder states of tune (RB26/31DET) .

I am curious to know how the FJ feels in the heavier R31 body .

Cheers A .

With 246HP @ the wheels,and 1270KG to cart around,the Pintara felt quite lively....till I got used to it that is! :O Sadly it only had a single spinner,so any tail out action was quite violent,as the single legger changed it's mind on which way to go.

The HR31's a bit heavier,listed at 1360KG with the RB20.Should end up a bit lighter than that with the FJ in it,despite bigger intercooler,etc. Good thing about the Skyline,is it rides even better than the Pintara did,also has 4WS,LSD,big brakes,etc,etc. The amount of trouble this conversion is causing me,it's a wonder it still has the Hicas,air con,etc!

After steing out of a my KE20 Corolla back into the HR31,even 246HP should feel bloody fast for a while! :D Hopefully soon after boost will go from 10psi (246hp) up to 25+ (???hp) :)

I agree that there's no substitute for cubes-even in the turbo world...but...if I may quote you: "I detect that the love affair with the FJ20ET is alive and well..."

:O god damn right!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...