Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys/girls, just wondering what are the stocker boost levels for a 33 GTS-T???

also what kilowattage would my car be making as it is now??? ( its fairly stock, only minor mods so far.. HKS Pod and Blitz 3" Catback Exhaust ), but when i get me some more money i wanna get an apexi sfac and intercooler and mb up the boost a bit more.

thanks in advance. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82511-boost-levels-for-a-33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Stock boost for you will be 6psi with boost jumping up to 8psi at 4500rpm (when the solenoid is set to open).

That's exactly what I was running (aftermarket boost guage readings) with just a catback exhaust.

If you want a little more power before 4500rpm there's a thread here somewhere which shows you how to ground the solenoid permanently so it runs the higher setting (8psi) right from the start.

I did this before I got my mods and it made a nice difference :D

all good... if your on a budget, get one of those new "ball and spring" type boost controllers. cost ya $30 from ebay. highly recommend them. no spiking, good straight up boost. Put it on 10PSI straight away. Will notice a nice big gain from factory resulting in a lot more low end response. The back of your head starts to discover where the headrest is! :)

all good... if your on a budget, get one of those new "ball and spring" type boost controllers. cost ya $30 from ebay.  highly recommend them. no spiking, good straight up boost.  Put it on 10PSI straight away. Will notice a nice big gain from factory resulting in a lot more low end response. The back of your head starts to discover where the headrest is! :)

nah no budget, i have my own online business n i live at home still hehe, so i can afford 2 spend as much money on my car as possible..... for now lol :)

speakin of ebay but, theres sum "import" places that are selling sfac's and avc-r's n such, anyone ever bought an item like that from an ebay seller??? coz from what i know there cheaper than if you buy them from like autobarn or something but i dunno if there dodgy sellers or not, i dont wanna pay $300-500 bucks and not get anything sent to me...

No budget constraints?! niceee.... i would:

FMIC

3" Dump/front

Walbro GSS-341 Fuel Pump (best performing/price)

Nismo adjustable fuel regulator (better than Sard varient)

550 CC Injectors

Z32 AFM or Q45 AFM

Tomei Poncam (or just the camgears)

..and i hear Whiteline's "Pineapples" are top notch

Of course you'll need to dweal into the world of the electronic side of things, to control everything. Power FC will do, pretty much, it all.

You will have yourself a weapon of mass destruction. yay hope I haven't bored you

hahaha nah mate, actually thats some superb info, although i might have to only do half that for now, ive only jst got onto my P's lol, and been defected once already for the bov.... i was like.... come on man it just makes noise gheeesh, but i copy pasted your suggestion into a word file n saved it for future reference. :rolleyes:

yeah alota ebay sellers are genuine, i am one, thats my online business, but some are dodgy, especially the ones from china. .... " ugh yeah up for auction i have a HKZ Pob filter and a NIZMO short shifter " <<< stay away from people that advertise like that peeps that are'nt in the know.

buy everything from nengun or people on the forums with good feedback. forget ebay

powerfc $1500 tuned

electronic boost controller $300

fmic $1200 fitted

cold air box and pod kit $450 ish

some good tyres $900 for the rear

gtr fuel pump $250

exhaust $1400

run 12psi should make just under 200rwkw or thereabouts and the tune will fly

youll struggle for traction in first gear past 4grand and it will spin into second

perfectrun's prices are a joke

my car is running stock boost at 7psi, constant. it doesn't spike or roll of or nothing. am running a 3 inch exhaust and FMIC, but thats it.

strange how it varies from car to car.

Can I ask why you're only boosting 7PSI? I'd be up around the 10-12PSI mark myself with your mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...